Sometimes it may be a good idea to give your birds some calcium tablets/supplements in order to help them expel material OR to help them be able to lay eggs safely. In many cases, the most common forms of calcium products come in tablets or pills. This article's purpose is to help give some insight on when to decide to interfere with an egg emergency, what kind of products to use, and how to administer pills/tablets (with pictures).
When to interfere with an egg-related issue (egg binding, soft shells eggs, other weird eggs, etc.)
The example bird used in this article is Coal-A, who has been laying soft shell eggs for 4 days now. Normally, I wouldn't recommend waiting 4 days before interfering, I just took 4 days to find the culprit.
- I think the most important thing is to identify the problem. There are several questions you can ask yourself in order to pinpoint an issue. For example, what breed of chicken are you dealing with? How old is the bird? What are the symptoms and have you noticed any lethargic birds? As well as what are you feeding them?
1.) What breed of chicken are you dealing with? Some breeds are more prone to reproductive issues than others. High production breeds like WLs, RIRs, or RSLs tend to be better layers than most of the other chicken breeds. Because of this, they may also be more prone to reproductive issues later on in their lives. Once over the age of 2, they are at risk for these issues, though some can get them earlier or even many years later. Usually these issues do not affect pullets who are not yet laying. That being said, just because a high production breed is more prone to have reproductive issues, does not mean that a Silkie (for example) can't. ALL females can be at risk. Reproductive issues cannot be solved and, unfortunately, sometimes there’s nothing you could do.
2.) How old is the bird? Generally speaking, older layers or younger layers are more prone to have glitches in their egg laying journey. As a bird ages, they start to loose the ability to retain specific nutrients. This can range from calcium to specific antioxidants. Because of this, they may start to have reproduction issues as well. Younger or new layers are also prone to glitches. But because they are, in the sense, less experienced, I typically cut them some slack. Their body is adapting to a lot of "new" things. Because of this, I would actually EXPECT a new layer to have a few glitches when they first start out. So if I get a few soft shell eggs, I wouldn't worry as much if they came from new layers as opposed to older layers. I generally don't interfere with a new layer unless the problem lasts for more than 2-3 days. Keep in mind that smaller eggs are normal in new layers too, and I wouldn't interfere if that were the case.
3.) What are the symptoms and have you noticed any lethargic birds? There are quite a few issues that can cause chickens to have egg-quality mishaps. They can range from egg binding, to malnutrition, to glitches, and even cancer. This article is geared more towards how to administer meds, so I recommend reading about the different egg issues in another article. There are many informational ones here on BYC. I won't go too in depth, but I will say that egg binding is something that is on the more severe note, and I would interfere as soon as I see issues (birds tend to be hunched over in an upright position, and an egg may be visible, but stuck)
4.) What are you feeding? A chicken will be a LOT healthier if given the correct diet. This is important to know, in order to be a good chicken-tender. Some owners choose to feed layer feed, some feed All-flock, and some feed homemade feeds. I recommend asking around for other opinions before deciding on what to feed. I personally feed an All-Flock/flock raiser type feed, unmedicated, with 20% protein, and ALWAYS provide oyster shells in a SEPERATE container where it cannot get wet. Oyster shells is a form of calcium carbonate, which I will be going into later. If you are feeding an all flock/flock raiser to active layers without providing a source of calcium, the chickens will DEFINITLEY have issues in the long run (and even short-term). Active layers NEED to have some sort of "steady calcium"
Different types of calcium (calcium carbonate, gluconate, and citrate)
- There are several types of calcium and its important to know which one you have and are using.
1.) Calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is probably the most common form of calcium/the easiest one to find, IMO. Types of these include, but are not limited to: oyster shells, egg shells, tums, and certain supplements (read labels to see if a specific supplement falls under this category or not). This form is highest in calcium, but also the slowest absorbing. This is best for daily use/consumption.
2.) Calcium gluconate. Calcium gluconate is the stuff that is found naturally in fruits and veggies. This form is not very high in calcium and is also harder to digest.
3.) Calcium citrate. Calcium citrate is the by-product of making citric acid. It is the easiest one to absorb, and therefore, the fastest-working one. This is best for egg binding issues, and other issues that require a fast solution.
How to administer pills/tablets
- Many of the calcium types above are found in the form of tablets or pills. Tums (400mg tablets) are what I will be using in this tutorial. Keep in mind that some birds will be calmer and some may make this process miserable. Whatever it is, I wish you the best of luck in successfully force-feeding your chickens. And I want to assure you that it will DEFINITELY get easier with practice. I have gotten to the point of being able to do this one-handed, but it may be easier to use both, or even to have someone hold the bird while you pop in the tablet/pill.
1.) If the pill/tablet is quite large, break it into smaller pieces (there's not need to grind it into a powder, small chunks will do). Do NOT do this with pills or tablets that are meant to be sublingual.
2.) Open the bird's beak (I like to sit down for this step)
3.) Pop in the tablet/pill (I recommend pushing it slightly lower than shown in the photo, which is what I did off camera.)
4.) Close the bird's beak and watch for a swallow.
5.) Check to make sure the pill/tablet has been successfully administered.
6.) Repeat this step until all the chunks have been fed. Make sure to let the bird rest in between, don’t stuff all the chunks down at one time.
7.) Pat yourself on the back and thank yourself for being a great chicken owner!
Example photo (tums). This is how I check a label for what kind of calcium a specific calcium supplement is. As can be seen, tums is a form of calcium carbonate, which is high in calcium, but harder to digest.
When to interfere with an egg-related issue (egg binding, soft shells eggs, other weird eggs, etc.)
The example bird used in this article is Coal-A, who has been laying soft shell eggs for 4 days now. Normally, I wouldn't recommend waiting 4 days before interfering, I just took 4 days to find the culprit.
- I think the most important thing is to identify the problem. There are several questions you can ask yourself in order to pinpoint an issue. For example, what breed of chicken are you dealing with? How old is the bird? What are the symptoms and have you noticed any lethargic birds? As well as what are you feeding them?
1.) What breed of chicken are you dealing with? Some breeds are more prone to reproductive issues than others. High production breeds like WLs, RIRs, or RSLs tend to be better layers than most of the other chicken breeds. Because of this, they may also be more prone to reproductive issues later on in their lives. Once over the age of 2, they are at risk for these issues, though some can get them earlier or even many years later. Usually these issues do not affect pullets who are not yet laying. That being said, just because a high production breed is more prone to have reproductive issues, does not mean that a Silkie (for example) can't. ALL females can be at risk. Reproductive issues cannot be solved and, unfortunately, sometimes there’s nothing you could do.
2.) How old is the bird? Generally speaking, older layers or younger layers are more prone to have glitches in their egg laying journey. As a bird ages, they start to loose the ability to retain specific nutrients. This can range from calcium to specific antioxidants. Because of this, they may start to have reproduction issues as well. Younger or new layers are also prone to glitches. But because they are, in the sense, less experienced, I typically cut them some slack. Their body is adapting to a lot of "new" things. Because of this, I would actually EXPECT a new layer to have a few glitches when they first start out. So if I get a few soft shell eggs, I wouldn't worry as much if they came from new layers as opposed to older layers. I generally don't interfere with a new layer unless the problem lasts for more than 2-3 days. Keep in mind that smaller eggs are normal in new layers too, and I wouldn't interfere if that were the case.
3.) What are the symptoms and have you noticed any lethargic birds? There are quite a few issues that can cause chickens to have egg-quality mishaps. They can range from egg binding, to malnutrition, to glitches, and even cancer. This article is geared more towards how to administer meds, so I recommend reading about the different egg issues in another article. There are many informational ones here on BYC. I won't go too in depth, but I will say that egg binding is something that is on the more severe note, and I would interfere as soon as I see issues (birds tend to be hunched over in an upright position, and an egg may be visible, but stuck)
4.) What are you feeding? A chicken will be a LOT healthier if given the correct diet. This is important to know, in order to be a good chicken-tender. Some owners choose to feed layer feed, some feed All-flock, and some feed homemade feeds. I recommend asking around for other opinions before deciding on what to feed. I personally feed an All-Flock/flock raiser type feed, unmedicated, with 20% protein, and ALWAYS provide oyster shells in a SEPERATE container where it cannot get wet. Oyster shells is a form of calcium carbonate, which I will be going into later. If you are feeding an all flock/flock raiser to active layers without providing a source of calcium, the chickens will DEFINITLEY have issues in the long run (and even short-term). Active layers NEED to have some sort of "steady calcium"
Different types of calcium (calcium carbonate, gluconate, and citrate)
- There are several types of calcium and its important to know which one you have and are using.
1.) Calcium carbonate. Calcium carbonate is probably the most common form of calcium/the easiest one to find, IMO. Types of these include, but are not limited to: oyster shells, egg shells, tums, and certain supplements (read labels to see if a specific supplement falls under this category or not). This form is highest in calcium, but also the slowest absorbing. This is best for daily use/consumption.
2.) Calcium gluconate. Calcium gluconate is the stuff that is found naturally in fruits and veggies. This form is not very high in calcium and is also harder to digest.
3.) Calcium citrate. Calcium citrate is the by-product of making citric acid. It is the easiest one to absorb, and therefore, the fastest-working one. This is best for egg binding issues, and other issues that require a fast solution.
How to administer pills/tablets
- Many of the calcium types above are found in the form of tablets or pills. Tums (400mg tablets) are what I will be using in this tutorial. Keep in mind that some birds will be calmer and some may make this process miserable. Whatever it is, I wish you the best of luck in successfully force-feeding your chickens. And I want to assure you that it will DEFINITELY get easier with practice. I have gotten to the point of being able to do this one-handed, but it may be easier to use both, or even to have someone hold the bird while you pop in the tablet/pill.
1.) If the pill/tablet is quite large, break it into smaller pieces (there's not need to grind it into a powder, small chunks will do). Do NOT do this with pills or tablets that are meant to be sublingual.
2.) Open the bird's beak (I like to sit down for this step)
3.) Pop in the tablet/pill (I recommend pushing it slightly lower than shown in the photo, which is what I did off camera.)
4.) Close the bird's beak and watch for a swallow.
5.) Check to make sure the pill/tablet has been successfully administered.
6.) Repeat this step until all the chunks have been fed. Make sure to let the bird rest in between, don’t stuff all the chunks down at one time.
7.) Pat yourself on the back and thank yourself for being a great chicken owner!
Example photo (tums). This is how I check a label for what kind of calcium a specific calcium supplement is. As can be seen, tums is a form of calcium carbonate, which is high in calcium, but harder to digest.
