Clearance under coop for run?

[3KillerBs]

Thanks! The reason I'm thinking of 3 boxes is I may want to let a hen raise a clutch of eggs. If I do that, then I still have a nestbox +1 for the other hens. The change in materials probably won't be significant-- unless the extra box pushes me to an extra sheet of plywood.

Here's a great article on broodies: https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...rst-turkey-strut-to-weaning-the-chicks.76878/

I was thinking this exact thing! With a mobile coop. you can possibly make "flaps" that fold down for the move to new spot, but when placed they can be opened up, and propped. Due to wind, they need to be secured somehow. But SHADE is very important

Here's a good way to make a safe, adjustable prop for top-hinged windows: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

 

[Sally PB]

I was originally thinking of doing a pull-out litter tray

My husband built my coop, and included a pull out litter tray. I've never used it, never will. I have 4-5" of pine shavings on the floor to cushion the chickens' feet when they jump off the roost, to help prevent bumblefoot. No way I can pull the tray out with all that stuff on there. I'll be raking and shoveling it out. That's ok though, because the shavings will go into the run to slowly make compost for the next year.

 

[DavidReaves]

Here's a good way to make a safe, adjustable prop for top-hinged windows: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

Bimini top Hardware would be an excellent support!

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

I'm new to the BYC forums, though I've been lurking as a non-registered user for years.

So, I've searched messages for a couple of hours, and found lots of interesting things on coop dimensions, ventilation, etc. The one thing I haven't found this: How much headspace is desirable under the coop when building an attached run to a coop? This is for full-size, but not giant breed chickens. The space under the coop might as well be included in the outdoor run, especially since I'm thinking about a mobile run/"tractor". The closer to the ground the coop is means more head space in the enclosed coop above. Is 15 inches enough? Or 18 inches? I'm assuming that 12" would not be enough clearance. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

6' or more, walk in... Size matters

 

[aart]

6' or more

Under the coop!?

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

Under the coop!?

Exactly, makes no sense to have space you cannot walk into.

 

[perkolator]

View attachment 3049460

IMO that's going to be a PITA to move around unless you're a weigh lifter. I built a rabbit tractor with similar design, but smaller - it's pretty damn heavy

 

[DavidReaves]

IMO that's going to be a PITA to move around unless you're a weigh lifter. I built a rabbit tractor with similar design, but smaller - it's pretty damn heavy

All I'll have to do is raise the front a bit. I have a lawn tractor with a hitch that will do the actual work. Maybe I should put a coupler on the coop to start!

 

[KGandE]

I'm new to the BYC forums, though I've been lurking as a non-registered user for years.

So, I've searched messages for a couple of hours, and found lots of interesting things on coop dimensions, ventilation, etc. The one thing I haven't found this: How much headspace is desirable under the coop when building an attached run to a coop? This is for full-size, but not giant breed chickens. The space under the coop might as well be included in the outdoor run, especially since I'm thinking about a mobile run/"tractor". The closer to the ground the coop is means more head space in the enclosed coop above. Is 15 inches enough? Or 18 inches? I'm assuming that 12" would not be enough clearance. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

I'm not sure if this is the answer you're looking for, but I'll put my two cents in - we have an under coop run about 18 inches high and it is a nightmare. Our hens and ducks often go under there and won't come out when it's time to lock them up at night. This is a headache and, as a result, I don't think I will even buy or build a coop that the birds can hang out under again.

That said, I guess the fact that they go way under and won't come out means they like it under there but, where we live, it isn't really safe to leave hens in a run over night, they need to be locked in the coop to avoid predators so I have spent numerous evenings on my hands and knees, trying to coax someone out with a long stick in order to lock them up.

 

[KGandE]

I'm not sure if this is the answer you're looking for, but I'll put my two cents in - we have an under coop run about 18 inches high and it is a nightmare. Our hens and ducks often go under there and won't come out when it's time to lock them up at night. This is a headache and, as a result, I don't think I will even buy or build a coop that the birds can hang out under again.

That said, I guess the fact that they go way under and won't come out means they like it under there but, where we live, it isn't really safe to leave hens in a run over night, they need to be locked in the coop to avoid predators so I have spent numerous evenings on my hands and knees, trying to coax someone out with a long stick in order to lock them up.

PS - reading some of your other replies, I have two additional thoughts:

1- If this is going to double the space your birds have, then maybe it is worthwhile - this isn't the case for mine as they have a larger covered area to roam in and the run is within that space.

2 - I forgot about the eggs - that's something else to think about. Yes, my ducks love nothing better than walking to the far back corner of the under-coop run and laying an egg. They usually dig out a little nest to put it in and this means I am, again, on my hands and knees with a long stick trying to roll the egg/s up over the lip of the nest and then across the length of the whole coop without breaking so I can get it out of there.