Clearance under coop for run?

[user605178]

I'm new to the BYC forums, though I've been lurking as a non-registered user for years.

So, I've searched messages for a couple of hours, and found lots of interesting things on coop dimensions, ventilation, etc. The one thing I haven't found this: How much headspace is desirable under the coop when building an attached run to a coop? This is for full-size, but not giant breed chickens. The space under the coop might as well be included in the outdoor run, especially since I'm thinking about a mobile run/"tractor". The closer to the ground the coop is means more head space in the enclosed coop above. Is 15 inches enough? Or 18 inches? I'm assuming that 12" would not be enough clearance. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

For the chicken tractor I would probably ma
ke it 24" tall 4ft wide 8ft long and put dolly wheels on it with a piece of all thread

 

[Extex1969]

I am a fan of raised coops. I live in the country with 4 months+ of Canadian winters. I do not free range for both pest and predator protection. My run is 200 square feet, raising the coop almost doubles their quality of life.

4 steps to a square stoop, walk in coop (160 sqft) is raised 3'+ for access purposes.

 

[DavidReaves]

So, after the fact, I made a small error in judgement. I made the floor of the coop 18" above the ground. With hindsight, it would have been better to make 18" to the bottom of the frame (or 21" to the floor). It could have even been 24" to the floor. I didn't want to make it too tall to be unstable when moving, but it could be up to 6 inches higher without a problem. There will still be room for the chickens under the tractor, but less room for me should I need it.

Here's a photo of the coop, with wire and roof on the run portion still to go. You can see the space under the coop. I had to get it mobile to clear the carport where I have been working, so the wheels are mounted. There's also a couple of photos of the wheels, since that was mentioned.

 

[Krugerrand]

Wonderful pictures of the wheels!

 

[goldenyears]

So, after the fact, I made a small error in judgement. I made the floor of the coop 18" above the ground. With hindsight, it would have been better to make 18" to the bottom of the frame (or 21" to the floor). It could have even been 24" to the floor. I didn't want to make it too tall to be unstable when moving, but it could be up to 6 inches higher without a problem. There will still be room for the chickens under the tractor, but less room for me should I need it.

Here's a photo of the coop, with wire and roof on the run portion still to go. You can see the space under the coop. I had to get it mobile to clear the carport where I have been working, so the wheels are mounted. There's also a couple of photos of the wheels, since that was mentioned.

View attachment 3098727View attachment 3098728View attachment 3098729View attachment 3098730

That looks more like art than a chicken coop! Very nicely done.

 

[AZMountainMama]

We built a walk-in in elevated coop that is stationary. We built it 2.5’ above ground. It is a nice height -they get shade and weather protection. We built it 18” away from barn wall. We can walk on 3 sides, with the 4th side being the access porch for humans. So, if you have a smaller mobile coop, retrieving things or birds shouldn’t be an issue even if height is shorter than 30”. But, if a larger coop, you will want a decent height.

For egg retrieval- I’ve heard that using an inexpensive pasta spoon (the type with fingers all around the edges, and it forms a cup) attached to a longer pole is excellent for retrieving eggs under coops or in the far corners of a coop.

Love the pasta spoon idea!