Need Clarification - Depluming mites?

[dbounds10]

Ok I have a hen that I got from a lady as a kind of rescue. She was being bullied in her flock. I have come to the conclusion that is was not bullying but depluming mites. I have heard that they don’t necessarily spread to all the others cause if they have food they don’t need to. None of my others have a single sign of bugs and feathers are all perfect. They are all on 20% full plume Kalmbach right now as they are just now coming out of molt. The hen in question did get some feathers back when I switched feed but quickly was right back to looking ratty. Long story short, I will treat the entire flock but do I need to deep clean the coop also (yuck and damnit lol). Also, Eprinex has no withdrawal but is it as effective as ivermectin? Also does anyone know the proper dose for BOTH meds?

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Looks like typical feather picking, mating and bullying damage to me. Perhaps they were overcrowded or had too many roosters or not enough space....

Broken and worn off feathers where the shaft is still intact in the skin will not be replaced until she goes through a molt. You may see some new feathers coming in which is typical when plucked out.

Do you see bugs on her? If so, give her a dusting with a Permethrin based dust. Treat any caging/housing she's been in.
Hopefully she will be fit to come out of quarantine/separation in a few weeks and won't spread bugs or illness to your existing flock.

Where are you finding that there's no withdrawal period when using Eprinex (Eprinectin)?

 

[dbounds10]

Looks like typical feather picking, mating and bullying damage to me. Perhaps they were overcrowded or had too many roosters or not enough space....

Broken and worn off feathers where the shaft is still intact in the skin will not be replaced until she goes through a molt. You may see some new feathers coming in which is typical when plucked out.

Do you see bugs on her? If so, give her a dusting with a Permethrin based dust. Treat any caging/housing she's been in.
Hopefully she will be fit to come out of quarantine/separation in a few weeks and won't spread bugs or illness to your existing flock.

Where are you finding that there's no withdrawal period when using Eprinex (Eprinectin)?

@Wyorp Rock I have had her for about 5 ish months and she came from a huge place. Was told she was a couple of years old but don’t really know. I got her and a sweet Roo at the same time and I did quarantine them for 2 weeks when I got them before integrating them. Was told she was picked on and was a roo favorite. My roo i know mates with her but here is where I thought mites. I switched them all over to the feather fixer when they started molting and she got a bunch of feathers back but never lost all those ragged shafts. And the new feathers that came in, some were good and some ended up being just shafts. She never got any back on her tail, just raggedy shafts. The only time I have ever seen anyone pick at her is when I put the saddle on and they pecked at that a little. She is also a bit thin as I can feel her keel bone. She eats like an hog! Acts perfectly normal and has never stopped laying daily dinosaur size eggs. Again, not a single other bird has issues. I have checked them all up and down and never seen a bug. Before I got this brand new flock last spring I deep cleaned, pressure washed and sanitized the coop and added fresh expensive a$$ hemp. But if I have to redo it, I guess I will lol. DANG IT!

As for the Eprinex, I read it a few times on here but when I googled it did say there was a withdrawal. I know some people follow that and some don’t. It’s can’t hurt to treat for the depluming just in case right? I am just really really bad a math so doage is an issue for me

 

[coach723]

She may not have done a full molt, and since you say she's thin, that could be a contributing factor also. It takes a lot of protein to make feathers. Not knowing her age is also a factor. I don't think it's de plumbing mites either, it looks to me also like rooster damage and feather picking. I would concentrate on getting her healthy, getting some weight on her (if you haven't done so I would either get a fecal test to check for internal parasites, or I would worm her -that can also cause weight loss). Sometimes during molt, with bare patches and new shafts, that can also attract attention and picking by others. She may be a very submissive bird, which means she can easily be kept from feeders by others, and can become a 'favorite' of a roo. Add a feeder or two, to give her more opportunities and so that higher pecking order birds can't guard them all. I think once she's eating enough and regularly, then the feather growth will probably be ok, but it will take some time, and may not happen until the next molt.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

I switched them all over to the feather fixer when they started molting and she got a bunch of feathers back but never lost all those ragged shafts. And the new feathers that came in, some were good and some ended up being just shafts.

I'd either have a fecal float and see if she's got worms or just deworm her.

Feed her a higher protein feed like an All Flock Feed or even Chick Starter. Yes! You can feed either one of these feeds to everyone if you wish, just provide oyster shell free choice. Aim for 18-20% protein feed and limit treats.
When she does indeed go through a molt, then she will replace all those broken feathers.

Here's a tip. There's nothing wrong with giving a "feather fixer" formula. It's marketing genius actually. Companies are very savvy with wording/labels to keep their customers from switching feeds during certain times of the year like molting. All a feather fixer formula is, is a "higher" protein layer feed. Where most typical layer feeds are 16-17% protein, feather fixer is usually 18%.
Again, there's nothing wrong with the feed, it's still a balanced poultry feed and if fresh, nothing wrong with feeding it at all.

It's good you aren't seeing bugs on her. If she did have depluming mites, she would be miserable and picking/plucking at herself constantly, digging at the base of her feathers and plucking them out. Wing feathers would look stripped and bare due to the attempt of the hen trying to get rid of the mites which live under the skin along the feather shaft.

 

[dbounds10]

I'd either have a fecal float and see if she's got worms or just deworm her.

Feed her a higher protein feed like an All Flock Feed or even Chick Starter. Yes! You can feed either one of these feeds to everyone if you wish, just provide oyster shell free choice. Aim for 18-20% protein feed and limit treats.
When she does indeed go through a molt, then she will replace all those broken feathers.

Here's a tip. There's nothing wrong with giving a "feather fixer" formula. It's marketing genius actually. Companies are very savvy with wording/labels to keep their customers from switching feeds during certain times of the year like molting. All a feather fixer formula is, is a "higher" protein layer feed. Where most typical layer feeds are 16-17% protein, feather fixer is usually 18%.
Again, there's nothing wrong with the feed, it's still a balanced poultry feed and if fresh, nothing wrong with feeding it at all.

It's good you aren't seeing bugs on her. If she did have depluming mites, she would be miserable and picking/plucking at herself constantly, digging at the base of her feathers and plucking them out. Wing feathers would look stripped and bare due to the attempt of the hen trying to get rid of the mites which live under the skin along the feather shaft.

@Wyorp Rock thanks for all the info! They are all on 20% Kalmbach full plume and have been for a few months. She rarely gets pushed off food and is normally the first one to the food every morning. Her crop looks like she is smuggling a baseball by bedtime. I rarely do treats, maybe once a month and it’s either meal worms or black oil sunflower. I think I will just worm everyone with ivermectin since that would also take care of mites IF she has them. None of them have ever been wormed because I didn’t see any sign or feel the need to do it for no reason. She may just be a ratty chicken lol. The lady I got her from rescued her from a production environment so she was never properly cared for. I think I also need to keep the saddle on for a bit cause she is bare backed and the last thing I need is puncture holes in her.