They grow incredibly fast! I don't know how big the new set up will be but figure a minimum of 1 sq ft per chick by 4 weeks and 2 sq ft per by 8 weeks. Ideally you'll have them out and in the coop before they get to that point.
Yes, I hope so. We plan to build a coop. Thank you for all your information
 
Here's my 2 cents worth. I would put cardboard around 3 sides of the kennel (or some sort of board). It doesn't have to be the full length, just a few feet down the length. This will help with drafts. I would also line the floor with cardboard and put pine shavings bedding over that (think ease of clean up when they go in the coop). Rosemarythyme gave great advice on the heater plate. Put it on the lowest height for the back 2 legs and 1 adjustment higher on the front 2 legs. You'll probably have to adjust it weekly and won't need it after a month. Make a low roost maybe 6" off the ground out of a 2x3. Pick each chick up daily and check its butt for poop. Gently clean any poop off with a wet paper towel. 10 chicks need plenty of clean water (believe me it can get disgusting quickly). They'll eat more (and waste plenty) than you expect. Keep them on chick starter/grower for 12 weeks or so. The chicks go through alot to travel to the store and then travel to your house. You did what you could and just know it happens. What you have to watch for is bloody diarrhea. If you see any, then treat them all with Corid for coccidiosis (common intestinal parasite). I wouldn't worry too much about the building getting too cold. I also wouldn't worry about the 1 week age difference. I raised chicks in a plastic doggy play pen in the garage all winter because I didn't have a coop built. I only had them in a plastic tote box for the first week until I set up the play pen. Get some chicken wire to cover the top or they will fly out.
When you build your coop, keep these things in mind:
1) 2-3 nesting boxes will be enough and have them open from the side rather than the top. This way they are more weather proof. Be able to access them from outside the coop and run because sometimes you just don't want to go in!
2) Use 4"x4" posts to raise at least part of the coop off the ground 2' (I didn't bury the posts but just set them on the ground). This keeps mice/rats from nesting under the coop. The chickens can use the space underneath as part of their run.
3) Build the coop big enough for 20 chickens, giving each chicken 4 SF of space inside and 15 SF of space in the run. This helps prevent fighting.
4) Have storage space for food and bedding right by the coop.
5) Make sure one end has full sized doors so you can easily rake out the soiled bedding.
6) Have more ventilation than you think you need (1SF per bird near the roofline over their roosting head height).
7) Predator proof every inch even if you don't think you have predators. In my chicken yard I used baseball netting to cover the top, but I also have a chicken tunnel and a chicken run.
8) For your 10 chickens, you'll need at least 10' of roost (a 2x4 works well), but 15' would be better. Keep them at least 15" away from walls and higher than nesting boxes.
9) In the summer freeze 1/2 gal jugs of water to put in their waterer (I use a Rubbermaid 13 gal trash can with drink cups attached) to keep the water cool. In the winter (depending on where you live), you'll need a heated waterer.
10) A covered bucket with feeder tubes works wonders. The chicken sticks its head in the tube to eat and you don't waste the food!

Enjoy your new chickens!
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom