Ventilation inspiration from a teepee

BarnyardChaos

Free Ranging
7 Years
Apr 23, 2017
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Richmond, MO
I visited an arts & crafts festival yesterday, which is themed on life in 1855. Part of the exhibits were a group of fur trappers, one of whom had a bonafide teepee set up with full furnishings and paraphernalia of the time period and culture. (He explains this as (in character) that he's married to a Native American and so, the teepee is their home instead of a trapper's traditional tent or dugout.) He had a fire pit in the center, cooking his dinner. So of course the conversation turned to how it never gets smoky inside, and how it stays warm in winter with that big hole.

Well, my chicken friends, I had an eye-opening experience studying the construction of this teepee, and it explains VERY well how proper ventilation pulls moist air (or in his case, smoky air) out, yet keeps the interior warm and draft-free.

I am very sorry I did not take a photo for you. But I'll try to explain.

It's not just a simple smoke-hole at the top, although there was a sizeable one in this teepee. This is the secret: There was a double layer to the walls. The outer layer (what you normally think of with a teepee) went almost - but not quite - all the way to the ground and up to the top of the apex, or smoke hole, oh maybe 18-20-feet high. There was an inner layer of fabric/leather/canvas that went all the way around the inside of the teepee, but only about 5' high, affixed to the teepee poles. This layer bunched a little on the ground on the inside, and was placed on the inside of the teepee poles, so that there was a 3-4-inch air gap between inner and outer layers all the way around. (Standing up, you could put your hand and arm into the gap between these layers.)

This design allows for cold outside air to enter below the bottom edge of the outer layer, and is pulled upwards by rising heat from the inside. This rising heat actually creates a sort-of vaccuum that pulls air inside and up. The inner layer protects from drafts and keeps it warm. He can control the amount of air movement by lowering or raising the flaps on the outside layer. In summertime, the inner layer and/or outer layer flaps can be removed or raised as well for better cooling effect.

Amazing, eh?
 
Here's a photo scavenged from the 'net, that shows the liner. They can be short, like this one, or much taller:

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This site has a pretty good basic description and illustration of the components and how they work in different weather conditions:
https://www.telli.com/page/siouxtipi

So.... I'm thinking the challenge is to build a wooden pyramid-like structure with a liner option for winter, for a chicken coop. Might be a great project!
 
Smart design! I wonder if and how that would be better than a well-ventilated coop in the context of chickens though. With people, you need actual warmth, in addition to being draft-free. Hence the layers and the actual heat source in the center of the teepee, and it's the presence of the heat source (the fire) that warms the air and pulls it up and creates the circulation and the overall effect. With a chicken teepee, you wouldn't have the heat source, and probably wouldn't have the overall effect either. It would also be extra challenging to make it predator-proof (and to keep it clean... Solid walls can be wiped, but projectile cecal poop on a fabric liner sounds nasty). Not to be a killjoy - the concept is indeed very cool, but maybe better suited to people than to chickens...
 
Smart design! I wonder if and how that would be better than a well-ventilated coop in the context of chickens though. With people, you need actual warmth, in addition to being draft-free. Hence the layers and the actual heat source in the center of the teepee, and it's the presence of the heat source (the fire) that warms the air and pulls it up and creates the circulation and the overall effect. With a chicken teepee, you wouldn't have the heat source, and probably wouldn't have the overall effect either. It would also be extra challenging to make it predator-proof (and to keep it clean... Solid walls can be wiped, but projectile cecal poop on a fabric liner sounds nasty). Not to be a killjoy - the concept is indeed very cool, but maybe better suited to people than to chickens...
It's still a starting point to consider and modify to chickens.

Let's see..... the chickens create a bunch of body warmth themselves - I'm wondering if their combined body heat is enough to create the updraft needed to pull the moisture with it? It does seem so with traditional ventilation designs in a standard coop. OR, lacking a supplemental heat source in the center, would the cold air come up between the layers, then pour over the edge of the liner and down? It's worth making a small experiment to find out, I think! Fun project I can do with the grandkids, eh?

For predator proofing, I was thinking of making the outer teepee of wood. I could use 2x4's for the poles, perhaps, maybe just an A-frame or pyramid. Wood planks for the outer walls, nailed to the posts. Wooden door I can lock. Standard build, yes? But then the liner...

I'd probably try a heavy-duty tarp or vinyl with grommets that I can remove periodically and hose it off. I'd need to make a narrow screen or some contraption that would allow air to pass upwards past the liner edge, but keep rodents out, and keep chickens from falling in. Or maybe some sort of panels cut to fit that are stationary, but removable.
 
It's still a starting point to consider and modify to chickens.
It's a great technique for a teepee, but not really appropriate for a coop.

Let's see..... the chickens create a bunch of body warmth themselves - I'm wondering if their combined body heat is enough to create the updraft needed to pull the moisture with it?
But most that heat stays under the feathers.
 
I'm wondering if their combined body heat is enough to create the updraft needed to pull the moisture with it?
If they lose so much body heat to the environment that it creates currents in the airflow, then you've got a serious problem and chickens that may not last the winter! The point of their down coats is to insulate the bird and keep the body heat close to the body. They shouldn't be losing body heat like that. They lose some through respiration, but even that's not a significant amount thanks to how they sleep in winter - they sit down on their feet and cover their toes completely (feet are not insulated and would lose heat otherwise), and they tuck their beaks in under their feathers, so their exhaled warm air stays in the feathers. They are very efficient - that's why they are able to withstand winter without humans giving them supplemental heat :) So you can't rely on the chickens to be a heat source and drive a current up. There shouldn't be any heat source in the coop, that's why this technique isn't practical for chicken coops.
 
I've got to say, teepees are sure cool. My sister's boyfriend built one and we camped in it. Totally worked as described, but was a heckuva lot of setup and takedown work. Also, in the winter, they would stuff brush between the two layers if needed or add furs on the inside layer for added insulation. There are some native tribes in Siberia that still live in communal teepees. I watched a documentary/video on you-tube about it once. Teepees of furs with a cast iron stove inside for heat and wood/fur lined floors. The tribe had 20-40 people and everyone knew exactly which job to do next, so it only took a few hours to setup/tear down. Their teepee was humungous. They moved it every few months to follow the game they ate.
 
I think the chicken body heat source wouldn't be a problem in getting air circulation. The moist air need to be only a enough warmer to rise; so any warmer. It might take some experimenting to get the proportions right.

Having the hole straight up, though? With a fire or stove, rain and snow would be absorbed into vapor in the hot air and/or pushed out. Without that - wouldn't it come in?

Placing the roosts could be difficult if you want them above the nests and the nests high enough to not have to bend down to reach the eggs. Lol, on the other hand, it might encourage plenty of floor space if you provide a foot of roost per bird all at least a foot from the side of the structure and at least a foot or two above the roost bar.

It is fun to play with the design.
 

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