Cattle Panel Roof Coop Plans

[21hens-incharge]

I will alternate so I don't burn out on popcorn.

Looking forward to how this comes together.

 

[Redhead Rae]

Pretty thorough layout, nice!

Thanks!

That catenary curve illustration is not quite accurate when applied to livestock panels

. It was shared on another thread yesterday, I didn't get a chance to fully lay it out to see how accurate it is, maybe later today, but have serious doubts.

That is one of the main reasons I posted here. I figured the tension of the steel in the hoop configuration would stretch out or distort the catenary curve. I didn't think the 6ft span really looked quite right. From everything I read a 6ft span yields about 6ft of height.

Will look closer later but....
.... first thing that struck me why are the feed and nests up so high?

The main is because I want them on top of the block foundation for easy access from the outside (we don't want to have to walk through the coop to feed and gather eggs) and the block foundation is so high. The foundation is so high for two reasons. 1) I want to set this structure length wide into a hillside. We will be digging it out with a tractor (my dad's new retirement toy). 2) To allow enough space for deep composting bedding so we don't have to muck out too often. Just add fresh carbon on top.

....and where are the roosts?
Major 'rule of thumb' is roosts are best ~12" above nests, and chickens like to eat off the ground, or close to it.

I didn't put them in the drawing I thought the picture would get too cluttered if I added them. I have been planning on putting them on top of the block wall, but I may have to rethink that since that would put them on a level with the nests. I know my Dark Cornish will need low roosts. Since they can't jump or fly much at all.

What about ventilation?

I'm going to leave parts of both ends of the peak open. I just had a thought. If added maybe another 6"-12" of space above the nest boxes, I could put ventilation in that so we could get a convection current going between the lower and upper ventilation

Will greenhouse plastic be sheeting or panels?
Will you cover with shade cloth in summer to avoid 'oven syndrome'?

I want to use sheeting instead of panels. Intend to remove the sheeting during the summer and replace it with a tarp. I guess just covering the plastic with shade cloth would still allow sunlight in without roasting the birds. I'll have to think on this.

Breeders don't get run access?

I was trying to think of a way to give them access to a run without blocking external access to the nest boxes and feeding area. It doesn't really matter for the main flock because their run will be more open, but the breeders need to be in an isolated run to get the genetics I want. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I assume your block will be open at all doorways?
Or are your legs long enough to step over 2'8"?

I was thinking about just stepping over or having a step on either side for shorter family members. I can notch out the doorways in the block, but I don't really want to for 1) ease of build 2) deep bedding.

Maybe I'm not thinking far enough outside of the box.

I posted this now before even breaking ground to get different perspectives and help on the design. This helps me get out of my "box"

 

[Ruralhideaway]

Great design, following along.

 

[lazy gardener]

I'm thinking the arc of the 14' wide building will not be high enough to shed snow load. I like the concept. Also, will you put hdw cloth or some other barrier to keep predators from chewing through the sheeting?

FWIW, my 8 x 8 CP green house gets up to 120* in the summer, that with a 2 x 3 screen window open at each end, and open areas above both doors. So, you'll need to do something to manage your temp swings. Even a warm winter day may get too hot in there.

 

[Redhead Rae]

I'm thinking the arc of the 14' wide building will not be high enough to shed snow load. I like the concept. Also, will you put hdw cloth or some other barrier to keep predators from chewing through the sheeting?

I am concerned about the snow shedding ability with that curve as well. Yes, I will be covering with at least a 1" mesh over the cattle panels, I'm not sure if it should go over or under the sheeting.

FWIW, my 8 x 8 CP green house gets up to 120* in the summer, that with a 2 x 3 screen window open at each end, and open areas above both doors. So, you'll need to do something to manage your temp swings. Even a warm winter day may get too hot in there.

I think I can mitigate it by switching the sheeting out with a tarp or with shade cloth I believe. Also, my main flock will not be in these accommodations during the summertime. I want to move them over different areas during the late spring, summer and early fall and I have mobile coops for that. The main concern is that our property turns into a mud pit during the winter and the mobile coops aren't as easily mobile.

 

[rjohns39]

I am concerned about the snow shedding ability with that curve as well. Yes, I will be covering with at least a 1" mesh over the cattle panels, I'm not sure if it should go over or under the sheeting.

I think I can mitigate it by switching the sheeting out with a tarp or with shade cloth I believe. Also, my main flock will not be in these accommodations during the summertime. I want to move them over different areas during the late spring, summer and early fall and I have mobile coops for that. The main concern is that our property turns into a mud pit during the winter and the mobile coops aren't as easily mobile.

I would suggest under the sheeting. on my first CP shelter i put the tarp, then wire and have birds that managed to get stuck between the CP and tarp. I've since fixed that.

 

[aart]

Don't think that the catenary curve illustration is quite accurate when applied to livestock panels. It was shared on another thread yesterday, I didn't get a chance to fully lay it out to see how accurate it is, maybe later today, but have serious doubts.

oops forgot about this draft...will catch up later.
I played with this a bit in my cad program. Using the spans and heights given in the diagram in the first post of this thread, arc lengths did not equal the 16' length of a livestock panel. Arc (panel) lengths were from 15'-8" to 16'-9". So, close, but don't count on it.
BUT.
I highly recommend getting a panel and laying out the dimensions you need to meet and see how it fits before building anything.
The curve can do funky things and you may need to manipulate it into the shape you want....as shown here:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-hoop-coop-chicken-tractor.72211/

 

[aart]

I want to set this structure length wide into a hillside.

How far into the hill will it be, all the way up to top of the proposed block wall?
Think about your access there, both for feed, eggs....and snow load.

I didn't put them in the drawing I thought the picture would get too cluttered if I added them. I have been planning on putting them on top of the block wall, but I may have to rethink that since that would put them on a level with the nests.

Can you use layers in the program? Put roosts on another layer, then you can turn on or off. You should definitely figure them in.

If added maybe another 6"-12" of space above the nest boxes, I could put ventilation in that so we could get a convection current going between the lower and upper ventilation

That's a good idea...but the middle of the coop may not ventilate well without a higher vent.

I was trying to think of a way to give them access to a run without blocking external access to the nest boxes and feeding area. It doesn't really matter for the main flock because their run will be more open, but the breeders need to be in an isolated run to get the genetics I want. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd want them to have access to the outdoors.....you'll have to go in there to tend feed/eggs. It's good you are thinking about your access, but the birds need what they need, don't short them for your ease.

I was thinking about just stepping over or having a step on either side for shorter family members. I can notch out the doorways in the block, but I don't really want to for 1) ease of build 2) deep bedding.

Are you sure you need 30" of bedding? 18" would be plenty.

How did you start this design?
Floor space first, then head space for you?
Did you take the lowest panel curve to base your coop width and/or block wall height on?
I think you have a lot to consider before you reach a final design.
Is your model easily adjusted,(wait, is it a model or 2d drawings?) or will you have to start a new drawing to make changes?
When do you plan on starting the build?

 

[Redhead Rae]

How far into the hill will it be, all the way up to top of the proposed block wall?
Think about your access there, both for feed, eggs....and snow load.

Right. Good point. I am planning on placing access to the nest boxes and feed areas on the vertical face with a flap I let down. I need to take a look at the hillside I want to use more closely. I need to get a laser level.....

Can you use layers in the program? Put roosts on another layer, then you can turn on or off. You should definitely figure them in.

Yeah, I can layer.

That's a good idea...but the middle of the coop may not ventilate well without a higher vent.

Ah so having vents on either end of the peak of the arch may not be enough?

I'd want them to have access to the outdoors.....you'll have to go in there to tend feed/eggs. It's good you are thinking about your access, but the birds need what they need, don't short them for your ease.

That is true. I'm planning on feeding the main flock outside unless the weather is TRULY horrendous. We can do the same thing with the breeders. I've used 10x10x6 chain link dog kennels before. Maybe I could do it again. The problem with the stationary kennels of that size is they will get really muddy, nasty and dirty and I can't keep piling carbon in there because I would need to be able to open and shut the kennel doors for access.

Are you sure you need 30" of bedding? 18" would be plenty.

I want to start with 18" but I ideally would like enough room to keep adding material and only clean it out 1-2x per year.

How did you start this design?
Floor space first, then head space for you?
Did you take the lowest panel curve to base your coop width and/or block wall height on?

I started with the idea of increasing the span (and square footage) while maintaining the head room for me. I based these plans off the 14ft curve in that diagram in the beginning. I'm almost thinking that I want to change to a 12 ft span now to get extra height and snow shedding ability.

I think you have a lot to consider before you reach a final design.

I know I have a lot to consider. This is only my first draft. I wanted to engage you guys in the early planning so I can easily fix things before they are set in concrete or I buy the materials. I'm thinking I might go, buy 2 cattle panels to make a "day shelter" for my birds so I get some experience using cattle panel as a building material.

Is your model easily adjusted,(wait, is it a model or 2d drawings?) or will you have to start a new drawing to make changes?

I used a really cheap, free cad program (Home Plan Pro) that is a royal pain in the tukus to use. I think it is more interior decorators than for structural planning. The plans are NOT easily adjusted. You mentioned CAD in your hoop house build. Which program do you use? I wouldn't mind paying for a program, but I HATE signing up for free downloads only to have to cancel them because it isn't what I hoped. Which programs do you use? I'm a software engineer (more into linux builds than coding, I hate coding) so I can usually figure out how to use most programs.

When do you plan on starting the build?

Well my dad (they live in the house next door) is planning on having concrete poured in his garage sometime in the next month or two. I want to take that opportunity to lay the footers for this structure as the idea of mixing bagged concrete for this much space is NOT appealing to me. So I want to start digging out and forming up the footers in a few weeks to a month or so. But I can probably only work on it 1-2 days a week and I don't plan on it being done any time soon.

 

[aart]

Ah so having vents on either end of the peak of the arch may not be enough?

Might have some dead air in the middle of the 25' length....unless you use fans.
It's really hard to say.

and I can't keep piling carbon in there because I would need to be able to open and shut the kennel doors for access.

Make door thresholds higher, you only need maybe 6" of carbon to deal with poops and rain. Hopefully there no drainage problems......tho rain/snow off roof might be an issue.

I want to start with 18" but I ideally would like enough room to keep adding material and only clean it out 1-2x per year.

How are you going to move all that material 2x a year....twice, old out and new in.....700 cubic feet/26 yards. Have you done deep litter before?

I'm thinking I might go, buy 2 cattle panels to make a "day shelter" for my birds so I get some experience using cattle panel as a building material.

That's a very good idea. 'Hands on feel' will show you a lot. There's a big difference between drawing stuff and building it. Old machinist tells new drafter...just because you can draw it, doesn't mean I can build it ...why we had to take machine shop classes while learning to draft. I still have some trouble with it after nigh on 30 years.

You mentioned CAD in your hoop house build. Which program do you use?

I have full versions of Autocad Mechanical 2D and Inventor 3D. Try Sketchup it's free, but not without a learning curve.

So I want to start digging out and forming up the footers in a few weeks to a month or so.

Ooo, that's not much time...unless you never sleep.....or start digging before plan is fully assessed.