Coccidiosis treatment

[Jlwennerberg9]

I recently treated 4 new chicks for coccidiosis with corid. Only one chick was exhibiting symptoms but treated them all and the sick chick recovered. This was at the end of June. I now believe 3 of my 5 adult hens are exhibiting symptoms so I am treating all 5 adults with corid. My question is whether or not I need to treat the chicks again? The chicks are still sleeping inside at night but are exposed to the adult girls during the day to help them get acquainted. Is it possible for the chicks to become infected again since they have been exposed to the adults? If so, is it safe to treat the chicks again with corid so soon to their original treatment? My hens will be 1 year old at the end of this month and the chicks are just shy of 10 weeks old.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

I recently treated 4 new chicks for coccidiosis with corid. Only one chick was exhibiting symptoms but treated them all and the sick chick recovered. This was at the end of June. I now believe 3 of my 5 adult hens are exhibiting symptoms so I am treating all 5 adults with corid. My question is whether or not I need to treat the chicks again? The chicks are still sleeping inside at night but are exposed to the adult girls during the day to help them get acquainted. Is it possible for the chicks to become infected again since they have been exposed to the adults? If so, is it safe to treat the chicks again with corid so soon to their original treatment? My hens will be 1 year old at the end of this month and the chicks are just shy of 10 weeks old.

Welcome To BYC

What symptoms are you seeing that concerns you that your adults have Coccidiosis?

Photos of hens and poop?

If established adults that should have built resistance to Coccidia found in their environment have Coccidiosis, then yes, I'd treat chicks as well.


Liquid Corid dose is 2tsp or Powdered Corid Dose is 1 1/2tsp per gallon of water given for 5-7 days as the only source of drinking water.
Do not add any extra vitamins/electrolytes that contain B1(Thiamine) to food or water during the course of treatment.

 

[Jlwennerberg9]

Welcome To BYC

What symptoms are you seeing that concerns you that your adults have Coccidiosis?

Photos of hens and poop?

If established adults that should have built resistance to Coccidia found in their environment have Coccidiosis, then yes, I'd treat chicks as well.


Liquid Corid dose is 2tsp or Powdered Corid Dose is 1 1/2tsp per gallon of water given for 5-7 days as the only source of drinking water.
Do not add any extra vitamins/electrolytes that contain B1(Thiamine) to food or water during the course of treatment.

My initial concern was with one of my EE, (the white hen in the attached photo) as she hasn't been acting like herself for a couple weeks now. She seems to have less energy and is often laying by herself in the run or even sometimes the coop during the day. In the photo, she was laying inside the coop under the roosting bars. I also noticed her comb has been paler than usual, although not always the case. In general though, she has seemed under the weather. She has also been having diarrhea which I attributed to increased water intake, as we've had a stretch of extremely hot and humid days here in the Chicagoland area. My other hens were not acting the same way as her.

A few days ago, I began to think 2 of my other hens had developed sour crop. They would drink a lot of water and then repeatedly spill it from their beaks. Both had soft, squishy crops. Only one of them had an odor from her beak. Both were also occassionally dripping whitish drainage from their vents. Otherwise, they were acting completely like themselves. I isolated these 2 inside and began treatment for sour crop.

However, a day or two into this, I noticed both hens having orange/rust colored mucus in their stool, which is shown in the attached photos. The color and overall appearance is exactly how the stool looked from my chick that I treated for coccidiosis back in June. I wasn't sure if the mucus could possibly be related to sour crop so I didn't immediately initiate corid. Now, my hen who I was initially worried about(white EE) is also passing the same colored mucus in her stool. She has remained outside with the other girls, as I only separated the 2 with sour crop symptoms.

Given the similarity in stool to my earlier sick chick who recovered after corid treatment, I am inclined to think my adult hens now have coccidiosis. Possibly, the sour crop has developed in the 2 girls as a secondary infection? I should also mention that 4 of my 5 hens are also being treated for bumblefoot.

Sorry for the lengthy response. This is my first time raising chickens and believe me, I feel like a complete failure given all the ailments my girls keep facing. I love them to death and just want to do right by them.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

A few days ago, I began to think 2 of my other hens had developed sour crop. They would drink a lot of water and then repeatedly spill it from their beaks. Both had soft, squishy crops. Only one of them had an odor from her beak. Both were also occassionally dripping whitish drainage from their vents. Otherwise, they were acting completely like themselves. I isolated these 2 inside and began treatment for sour crop.

Oh dear, you have a lot going on

Yes, I would treat them all with the Corid, it won't hurt them. Thank you for the photos, yes, I'd treat.

You have a couple with sour crop, begin treating them too. I usually leave my "patients" with the flock unless they are getting picked on, but if you feel they need separated and that's easier for you, that is best.

The treatment(s) I use for crop problems are listed in the article below.

Have you dewormed them at all? If not and you don't see improvement with addressing the crop and treating with the Corid, then I'd deworm. You can deworm and treat for all the above at the same time if you wish. I just don't want you to get overwhelmed.

Tell me what you feed, including treats. Any chance that feed has gotten damp and molded? Or have you noticed clumps in the bag when you purchased it?





https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...w-to-know-which-one-youre-dealing-with.73607/

 

[Jlwennerberg9]

Oh dear, you have a lot going on

Yes, I would treat them all with the Corid, it won't hurt them. Thank you for the photos, yes, I'd treat.

You have a couple with sour crop, begin treating them too. I usually leave my "patients" with the flock unless they are getting picked on, but if you feel they need separated and that's easier for you, that is best.

The treatment(s) I use for crop problems are listed in the article below.

Have you dewormed them at all? If not and you don't see improvement with addressing the crop and treating with the Corid, then I'd deworm. You can deworm and treat for all the above at the same time if you wish. I just don't want you to get overwhelmed.

Tell me what you feed, including treats. Any chance that feed has gotten damp and molded? Or have you noticed clumps in the bag when you purchased it?





https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...w-to-know-which-one-youre-dealing-with.73607/

I actually referenced that exact article when I was initiating the sour crop treatment! That's when I learned you can give miconazole orally, which I have begun doing. Prior to starting them on corid, I had been giving my 2 sour crop girls acv and probiotics in their water. Are these ok to mix with the corid or better to hold off?

I have never dewormed them before. I didn't realize that many chicken keepers advise doing this once or twice a year as a maintance type of thing. I am learning as I go and often feel very stupid and in over my head. Is there a specific dewormer you would recommend? As long as it is safe to treat them at the same time as the corid, I will certainly start them on a dewormer.

They are fed an organic layer crumble. I believe the brand is Dumor, from my local Tractor Supply store. I have never noticed any issues with the food or any indication of mold, etc. The bag of food is kept in a container in a cool, dark location. However, I do occassionally moisten their food as they are OBSESSED with it that way over eating it dry. It may be possible the moistened food sat out too long and went bad that way? Usually, it is consumed within a few hours.

They also have access to plenty of grit and oyster shell. As far as treats go, they get mealworms, the occassional basic kitchen scraps, and when it's very hot out I treat them to frozen fruit and veggies. They also go wild over the leaves from our garden's broccoli and cabbage plants as well as lettuce from the garden so I feed those to them as well. I have to admit that I have been giving them the broccoli/cabbage leaves pretty much daily so perhaps that was too much?

 

[Wyorp Rock]

I actually referenced that exact article when I was initiating the sour crop treatment! That's when I learned you can give miconazole orally, which I have begun doing. Prior to starting them on corid, I had been giving my 2 sour crop girls acv and probiotics in their water. Are these ok to mix with the corid or better to hold off?

I have never dewormed them before. I didn't realize that many chicken keepers advise doing this once or twice a year as a maintance type of thing. I am learning as I go and often feel very stupid and in over my head. Is there a specific dewormer you would recommend? As long as it is safe to treat them at the same time as the corid, I will certainly start them on a dewormer.

They are fed an organic layer crumble. I believe the brand is Dumor, from my local Tractor Supply store. I have never noticed any issues with the food or any indication of mold, etc. The bag of food is kept in a container in a cool, dark location. However, I do occassionally moisten their food as they are OBSESSED with it that way over eating it dry. It may be possible the moistened food sat out too long and went bad that way? Usually, it is consumed within a few hours.

They also have access to plenty of grit and oyster shell. As far as treats go, they get mealworms, the occassional basic kitchen scraps, and when it's very hot out I treat them to frozen fruit and veggies. They also go wild over the leaves from our garden's broccoli and cabbage plants as well as lettuce from the garden so I feed those to them as well. I have to admit that I have been giving them the broccoli/cabbage leaves pretty much daily so perhaps that was too much?

No, I would add ACV to the Corid water. But you can give the Miconazole orally that's fine.

Doesn't sound like food is an issue. I give mine wet mash daily too.
I like to give mine scraps and leaves from the garden, they pick at them. I don't think you have a problem there.

We all have a lot to learn, so many things can pop up, so no worries, you've got this.

To treat most worms that poultry can have except for Tapeworm you can use Safeguard (Fenbendazole) or Valbazen (Albendazole). Both are given orally by weight; they do not mix well with water.

Safeguard dose is 0.23ml per pound of weight given orally once a day for 5 days in a row.
---OR---
Valbazen dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally once, then repeated in 10 days

Here's how to give oral medications:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

 

[Jlwennerberg9]

No, I would add ACV to the Corid water. But you can give the Miconazole orally that's fine.

Doesn't sound like food is an issue. I give mine wet mash daily too.
I like to give mine scraps and leaves from the garden, they pick at them. I don't think you have a problem there.

We all have a lot to learn, so many things can pop up, so no worries, you've got this.

To treat most worms that poultry can have except for Tapeworm you can use Safeguard (Fenbendazole) or Valbazen (Albendazole). Both are given orally by weight; they do not mix well with water.

Safeguard dose is 0.23ml per pound of weight given orally once a day for 5 days in a row.
---OR---
Valbazen dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally once, then repeated in 10 days

Here's how to give oral medications:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...dications-to-all-poultry-and-waterfowl.73335/

Thank you so much! You have been a great help. From what I've looked up briefly, Safeguard Aquasol is specifically for chickens, but Safeguard dewormer for goats can also be used off-label for chickens? Do you know if there is a noticeable difference in the treatment response between the two? I am hoping I can find at least one of options available near me.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Thank you so much! You have been a great help. From what I've looked up briefly, Safeguard Aquasol is specifically for chickens, but Safeguard dewormer for goats can also be used off-label for chickens? Do you know if there is a noticeable difference in the treatment response between the two? I am hoping I can find at least one of options available near me.

Both are Fenbendazole.
Aquasol is formulated to be mixed in the drinking water and the dosing on the label will treat roundworms only.

The liquid goat dewormer is a suspension and doesn't mix well with water. Depending on dosing and duration, you can treat most worms that poultry can have except for Tapeworms.

 

[Jlwennerberg9]

Both are Fenbendazole.
Aquasol is formulated to be mixed in the drinking water and the dosing on the label will treat roundworms only.

The liquid goat dewormer is a suspension and doesn't mix well with water. Depending on dosing and duration, you can treat most worms that poultry can have except for Tapeworms.

Thank you!