or do it @aart 's way, which is more work, but will ultimately look better.
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No, but using it as an easy way to dump the poop outside. I’ll have bucket outside waiting.A pipe?
Do you intend to use water to flush off the poop boards?
Wow thanks! I’ll definitely look into this.In that case.
Do this:
View attachment 2596748
Extend roofing 12" on gable ends to protect the gable vents.
There isn't enough overhang to give you the ventilation you need. That said, the decking is shot. You've already said you have to re-roof, and wood prices are astronomical right now.
Take your circular saw, gloves, mask, eyes. Set it shallow - 3/4" or so, run parallel lines the length of the shed 4" off the centerline left and right, and about 6" of the mid-ridges, measuring downwards. Remove the cut decking and shingles. Attach 1/2" hardware cloth to predator protect
Nail (or better, screw) PT purlins (still relatively cheap, thankfully) to the existing roof, such as it is. Mount metal roofing to it.
Angles are steep enough I'd use 2x12" or 3x12" (whatever's available, cheapest per sq ft, and involves the least cuts) 5v galvanized panels run lengthwise, rather than ridges perpendicular to ground. Flashing to trim the ends.
View attachment 2596744
Not sure poops will go down pipe very well....then you'd have to clean the pipe out.No, but using it as an easy way to dump the poop outside. I’ll have bucket outside waiting.
Can put foam board between rafters and metal roofing.I want to do metal roof too but not sure if it’ll be too hot in direct sun.
Thought about that but I’ll use at least 4” pipe. I’ll probably use water to flush once in a while. Pipe will be almost straight down with one curve at the end so should go out easy (hope so anyway!!)Not sure poops will go down pipe very well....then you'd have to clean the pipe out.
Can put foam board between rafters and metal roofing.
That'll help some.
Anything will get hot in the direct sun.
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
View attachment 2596766
I do a metal roof in the FL Panhandle. Highs in the upper 90s (average highs of 90+ three months of the year, and 88+ two others), triple digit heat indexes. (we are also high humidity). Running purlins vertically will gap the metal roof off the existing and failing shingled decking, creating a dead air space that will greatly reduce heat transfer into the shed - as the trapped air heats up, it will rise passively, drawing in cooler air from below, as opposed to simply radiating heat in. Additionally, the roof will (assuming you don't get colored metal) reflect a tremendous amount of solar energy that a shingle roof would normally just absorb.No, but using it as an easy way to dump the poop outside. I’ll have bucket outside waiting.
Wow thanks! I’ll definitely look into this.
This is great. Thanks for the idea!! I want to do metal roof too but not sure if it’ll be too hot in direct sun. But it’s definitely will look better!!
I’m in North Carolina (and will put my information in, thank you!) thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll definitely add this ventilation. I know I need plenty!!I do a metal roof in the FL Panhandle. Highs in the upper 90s (average highs of 90+ three months of the year, and 88+ two others), triple digit heat indexes. (we are also high humidity). Running purlins vertically will gap the metal roof off the existing and failing shingled decking, creating a dead air space that will greatly reduce heat transfer into the shed - as the trapped air heats up, it will rise passively, drawing in cooler air from below, as opposed to simply radiating heat in. Additionally, the roof will (assuming you don't get colored metal) reflect a tremendous amount of solar energy that a shingle roof would normally just absorb.
I'm not saying it doesn't get hot. I AM saying it doesn't get nearly as hot as most imagine, and inside the coop - assuming its crafted with a lot of ventilation as Aart and I both propose, you will likely find it significantly cooler than the existing structure.
and I don't recommend water for cleaning off poop boards. Leave the pipe out. Dry is better for your bird's respiration, less odor for everyone, and actually (I find) easier to clean.
If the roof hadn't been in such apparent bad shape (TY for the pictures of the decking from underneath) this would have been my first choice, even if it meant leaving the structure as is and reducing the coop space by moving the wire wall in two or three feet.As a fellow North Carolinian, unless you're high up in the mountains I suggest that you pull the siding off the entire downwind wall and replace it with wire -- extending the roof to keep the rain out.
As long as we can keep our bird's dry, it's nearly impossible to have too much ventilation in this climate.![]()
Thanks for the suggestion. I do have my coop right now that’s one side open completely. I hear you about having more ventilation. The down wind is the back side where I need to put the roost so I’m not sure how to do this. I don’t have enough space for roost right now.As a fellow North Carolinian, unless you're high up in the mountains I suggest that you pull the siding off the entire downwind wall and replace it with wire -- extending the roof to keep the rain out.
As long as we can keep our bird's dry, it's nearly impossible to have too much ventilation in this climate.![]()