Counter tops and flooring - what do you have

I love it!

We got most of the bubbles out with an orbital sander with no pad. It jiggled them all up--like making a soda flat.
 
Thanks so much for the pics. Did you make the tables? It looks like they are handmade then braced for more support. I guess plywood on the driveway would work, huh? I do like the holes but, I'd be afraid they'd get food in them. Im starting a small business called Dinner2go where I make meals for commuters to bring home on their way from work. ...so, I'll need everything to be health dept. approved.
 
We put a coat of 2-part apoxy resin on ours. The texture on mine was REALLY pronounced. Now, very little. There was one place the sand all washed out, and was a pencil eraser deep. Now it is completely flat. No dips. (it was what we were going for)
 
There are many ways to do concrete countertops. Some methods use forms. Some use pour-in-place. Some dye the concrete. Some apply the dye to the wet concrete, if you pour in place.

I just happened to use the Cheng method, so I'm including the link.
http://www.concreteexchange.com/

I know the Cheng design people make countertops for restaurants, so it must meet health dept req'ts.

eta - yes we made the tables. I needed 20 feet of perfectly level tables, so we bought 4 of those burro sawhorses, added some nice, sanded plywood, and screwed the plywood to the sawhorses. Then, we levelled the whole thing. A note: start at the highest point and bring everything up to it. We did it backwards first.
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eta - Laree, do you have to worry about hot pots and pans damaging the epoxy?
 
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No- the apoxy has "give". Some restaurants coat their tables with it. It CAN scratch, so no cutting directly on the countertops! We will probably have to re-apoxy the "high traffic" areas in 2 years, but no big whoop. It only takes a few days to dry--so we will probably do it when we re-seal the tile floors and then go on vacation.

OR--we may be tired of it by then. We still have all the forms, so maybe we will do something different. Having done it once, and having a big open space to keep the drying tops in (the shed or garage) makes the WHOLE thing less of a hassle. I doubt this house will ever be finished. But what then? Get llamas as a new hobby?

I looked at the Cheng technique extensively, and considered staining with the stencils. Alas, I was voted down by the menfolk, but still fancied it up.
 
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Here is our kitchen... Laminate countertop, tile backsplash, tile floors...it was like this when we moved in, so I didn't pick the style or color.

One thing I would suggest is that you choose neutral colors for the more permanent aspects of your kitchen. This house was built in the mid-90s when teal and paisley and mauve were in vogue, and I'm not really a fan of the blue countertop in the kitchen, but there's not much I can do to fix that without going through a lot of trouble and expense.

Tile floors are nice and they look great, but if you have young children with a tendency to drop heavy items on the floor, you might want to consider another type of flooring. Ceramic tiles can break easily when things are dropped on them. We have a tile near the fridge and another one in one of the bathrooms upstairs that are cracked.
 
Thanks for the advice.....
We are looking at some maple unfinished flooring. Is maple a good hard wood to put in? Would it hold up? We would ofcourse varnish and then cover with an epoxy before installing. I have done that sort of stuff before, easy peasy. But just wondering if that wood is something I would be sorry afterwards. Its super super cheap - hubby found it on a local auction site and so far $50 for around 200 sq. feet. I already have the varnish and the expoxy no problem there. He bought alot of that stuff afew years ago too. I will never run out of paint and stains LOL.

Edit: Oh and would you go super light with the stain on the floor or darker with my oak colored cabinets? I am so not a interior designer, give me a barn and I can tell you exactly what to do, but forget the inside of a house!!
 
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