Guinea talk.

The only ones I have been successful on determining the boys from the girls as keets are with the buff dundotte color, as the girls are usually much darker than the boys even as keets. (Of course, I've been wrong a time or two on those as well!) I don't know of any way of telling them apart other than that until they get their "voices". If you listen very closely, you may be able to detect that slight "buckwheat" from the girls at a few weeks of age. Hopefully someone else on here has had more success with this or has some different ideas.
(If you lived closer to me, I'd offer to swap you for whatever you needed.....I'd love to have some royal purples!)

I figured lol but was hoping. Planning on selling them by us in a couple years if it works out. Knowing us I'll end up with some of every color lol
 
Will definitely post pics of my babies. I'm guessing the right answer is no but is there anyway to tell boys from girls as babies? Even just possible ways or old wife's tales? I am ordering 7 but 4 are going to a friend. We already agreed to trade if needed but I plan on being pretty handsy with mine and hopefully keep the ones I pick when we get them.

When I first got my keets, there wasn't any way to tell. As they started to head into their fifth week, I began to notice some physical differences, but it wasn't until the females started their "buckwheat" (sounds more like "come back" to me) call that I could tell for sure. Even when they were fully developed, I mistook Priscilla for a male because she was pretty quiet and has very
large wattles as you can see in the picture below. This pose makes them look a bit bigger than they are. Frankenstein (male) is behind her. The two of them are usually first on the roost to eat out of my hand for their birdseed treat.


 
When I first got my keets, there wasn't any way to tell. As they started to head into their fifth week, I began to notice some physical differences, but it wasn't until the females started their "buckwheat" (sounds more like "come back" to me) call that I could tell for sure. Even when they were fully developed, I mistook Priscilla for a male because she was pretty quiet and has very large wattles as you can see in the picture below. This pose makes them look a bit bigger than they are. Frankenstein (male) is behind her. The two of them are usually first on the roost to eat out of my hand for their birdseed treat.
Ahh so cute. I don't know why but my hubby and I just love them. Lady we got some ducks and goats from had them and I had to tell myself not to but them over and over. Really want to hand raise them.
 
FEED QUESTION:

Do I need to be providing additional calcium on the side for the guineas? I think the females are laying out in the meadow. They are almost a year old now. What other nutritional needs are specific to guineas? Mine are free ranging and currently fed 18% starter feed (for many months they got high protein game feed). We live in southwest Mississippi so they have bugs and greens all year round.

Thanks for any thoughts.
 
FEED QUESTION:

Do I need to be providing additional calcium on the side for the guineas?  I think the females are laying out in the meadow.  They are almost a year old now.  What other nutritional needs are specific to guineas?  Mine are free ranging and currently fed 18% starter feed (for many months they got high protein game feed). We live in southwest Mississippi so they have bugs and greens all year round.

Thanks for any thoughts.


I give my guineas oyster shell grit, which is high in calcium. Their egg shells are normally very hard, so the hens need the extra calcium during laying season to produce proper shells. The first year I had my guineas, I didn't realize they needed extra calcium and some of my hens layed either soft shelled eggs or eggs with no shell at all. Once I added the oyster shell grit, those problems went away and I've not had any problems since.
 
I give my guineas oyster shell grit, which is high in calcium. Their egg shells are normally very hard, so the hens need the extra calcium during laying season to produce proper shells. The first year I had my guineas, I didn't realize they needed extra calcium and some of my hens layed either soft shelled eggs or eggs with no shell at all. Once I added the oyster shell grit, those problems went away and I've not had any problems since.

Oyster shell is not grit. You are right about everything else about the oyster shell and what its use is.

Grit that is for sale is for the most part granite and has no function in providing calcium for the eggs. Grit is necessary to allow them to grind up their food in their gizzards in preparation for digestion.

Guinea hens need both oyster shell and grit. The guinea cocks do not need oyster shell but they do need grit.
 
Oyster shell is not grit.  You are right about everything else about the oyster shell and what its use is.

Grit that is for sale is for the most part granite and has no function in providing calcium for the eggs.  Grit is necessary to allow them to grind up their food in their gizzards in preparation for digestion.

Guinea hens need both oyster shell and grit.  The guinea cocks do not need oyster shell but they do need grit.


Glad you pointed that out. I apologize for using the wrong wording as I do put both oyster shell and grit out for my guineas. Thanks for the clarification, though! :)
 
Quote:
Thank you both. I'll put out a container of oyster shell for them. They do have grit available. I have chickens as well so they have their mineral bar, but I don't see the guineas at the mineral bar and in fact like them to keep separate. About the terms used though, sometimes the word "grit" is used on products that are not grit, they are calcium. A product called "pigeon grit" is a calcium supplement, but a feed store in the city we used to live in would tell us that was proper grit (i.e. granite).Same with a product labeled "poultry grit"-- also calcium carbonate. I worry because it was horrible advice that feed store was giving me, but I knew better; what about people who don't know any better? And trying to correct them was unsuccessful.

Again, thank you. I'll put out a container right away.
 
Thank you both. I'll put out a container of oyster shell for them. They do have grit available. I have chickens as well so they have their mineral bar, but I don't see the guineas at the mineral bar and in fact like them to keep separate. About the terms used though, sometimes the word "grit" is used on products that are not grit, they are calcium. A product called "pigeon grit" is a calcium supplement, but a feed store in the city we used to live in would tell us that was proper grit (i.e. granite).Same with a product labeled "poultry grit"-- also calcium carbonate. I worry because it was horrible advice that feed store was giving me, but I knew better; what about people who don't know any better? And trying to correct them was unsuccessful.

Again, thank you. I'll put out a container right away.

As you have learned, very often the people working in chain stores are not knowledgeable of the products they sell. You already know that Calcium and Calcium Carbonate cannot be used as a substitute for grit. It is far too soluble to be used to grind up food and in the case of young male fowl can cause harmful levels of Calcium in their blood stream.

As a temporary quick remedy for hens that are seriously low on Calcium, there are liquid calcium supplements that can be administered orally or added to the water supply. Hens that are too low in Calcium can exhibit loss of motor control in their muscles.

Good luck with your hens.
 
Mine travel all over my neighborhood and they come home every night and roost in the same spot. I didn't really trained them that way i was just lucky enough they chose that spot. i have them penned up right now because of laying season and hoping to hatch some eggs. Ive never fed mine oyster shell or grit. Is that bad? they should be laying soon. I usually feed them 16% layena chicken feed along with cracked corn.
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom