Hi i had a small flock of 5 hens and a rooster. All but one was killed by a fox recently. I had one hen separated and sitting on 4 eggs and 4 eggs in a cheap 7 egg mini incubator. The instruction are rubbish and i did as much research as possible. I wasn't able to place a humidifier temp gauge in the incubator as its so small, so i have no idea if my humidity is correct. im on day 22. no sign of hatching. I only candled at day 10 and all looked fine. i didnt want to interfere too much since it is my first time. So i guess my question is has anyone else had any success with the cheap mini 7 incubator? what day did yours hatch and how did you handle the humidity without being able to gauge it and how ofter did you turn the eggs? Thanks
Has anyone had any success with a cheap Mini 7 Incubator ?
- Thread starter Em169
- Start date
Back when I used to raise quail, the first mini incubator I purchased was worthless. I then bought a Brinsea mini incubator that worked like a charm. It is a round yellow incubator that rotates the eggs, and it comes with good instructions on incubation temps and times, but you can program it and just let it run until the chicks start hatching.
- Thread starter
- #3
Em169. It's been so long since I used mine, so I had to go to the basement to look at it again. Mine is the Brinsea Mini Advance, which you can program for temp, turn rate, turn angle, cooling, and it has a reservoir for water to add humidity. However, it does not automatically gauge the humidity, nor can you program it to do so. I remember now that when I used it, I didn't really use the reservoir until closer to hatch time so the chicks wouldn't stick in the shell once I started to see chipping. I am sorry that I had forgotten about this, and I now see that you are wanting a humidity gauge with yours. I did a check online to see if Brinsea makes a newer model with a humidity gauge, and they do. It is called the Brinsea Mini II Ex. I found one on Amazon, but it is a bit pricey and only has one review...
https://www.amazon.com/Brinsea-Prod...id=1498542897&sr=1-1&keywords=brinsea+mini+ex
If you are willing to pay that much, maybe do some more checking for reviews on this model. I was very happy with my little older version of the Brinsea incubator. HTH.
https://www.amazon.com/Brinsea-Prod...id=1498542897&sr=1-1&keywords=brinsea+mini+ex
If you are willing to pay that much, maybe do some more checking for reviews on this model. I was very happy with my little older version of the Brinsea incubator. HTH.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you for looking into that for me. I really can't afford something so expensive and to be honest I think I'd only use it once or twice. Just for the excitement of seeing them hatch and showing my two young kids. I see lots for around the 60-100$ mark however I don't want to be in the same situation as I am now with a rubbish incubator... hopefully the eggs under my chicken hatch.
MommaHen2Many
Songster
Hi em169, My kids and I actually made one...we have hatched two batches of around 12 chicks each time with it. Got the instructions off of you-tube. I'll warn you though...the
kids will ask to hatch babies every year! 
we "accidentally" had our first hatch on easter weekend in 2016. These pictures were taken through a large glass window on the top, so we could watch after lock down. The basics, a fan, a heat source, and a pan of water (you can barely see it) The second time we used it, I added a 2nd bulb as a precaution in case one of the bulbs went out, there would still be enough heat to keep the babies alive. Have fun with your chicks!
kids will ask to hatch babies every year! we "accidentally" had our first hatch on easter weekend in 2016. These pictures were taken through a large glass window on the top, so we could watch after lock down. The basics, a fan, a heat source, and a pan of water (you can barely see it) The second time we used it, I added a 2nd bulb as a precaution in case one of the bulbs went out, there would still be enough heat to keep the babies alive. Have fun with your chicks! Attachments
- Thread starter
- #7
MommaHen2Many
Songster
I'd have to look at my "chicken book" (I keep notes...lol..) But I think it was 2 or 3 times a day. Once kid did it when we got up in the am, another around lunch time??, and then again before we went to bed. We had a sheet to "initial' that it got done, you can imagaine how many times it was missed with kiddos doing it, but they learned to "remember".
- Thread starter
- #9
Haha oh that's a good idea. My boys are a little young yet for that. I've just purchased some things on eBay and I'm making my own. Thank you so much for the idea. I'm very excited. Hoping for better results next time around. It's amazing how long 21 days can be ha
How to Successfully hatch eggs using Mini 7 Incubator
First, unless you are using small chicken or Quail eggs, do not expect to load 7 eggs. For large eggs and duck eggs, the center tray location should not be used.
Unfortunately, you will need to purchase a few additional items that will increase the odds of a successful hatch. The following are recommended; a hydrometer to monitor humidity, a second thermometer, a mini flashlight to “candle” the eggs, tape and a pad for the chicks during the final hatching phase. You should have a pencil or felt tip pen to make a reference point for turning the eggs and the location of the air sack.
Because the incubator is not insulated, some means of insulating may be necessary to stabilize the temperature. The styrofoam packaging might be used as insulation provided a hole is drilled or melted through it, to line up with the vent hole on the dome. I used a small hand towel folded in thirds draped over the dome.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JHKLLCQ/?tag=backy-20
The above link is for a combined hydrometer/thermometer.
https://www.dollartree.com/foam-gripper-pads-4ct-packs/178052
The above “Jar Gripper Pads” are just the right size and should work well for lockdown.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-12-in-21-led-flashlight-63734.html
I happened to get my flashlight from Harbor Freight, but Walmart also has a good selection, with some priced for as little as $1.00.
Before you assemble the incubator here are the recommended modifications.
There are 3 small metal screws that hold the incubator together on the edge where the dome fits on. In such a wet, humid environment, these will rust quickly if not protected. A dab of fingernail polish should work fine.
The dome will need modification to use the hydrometer. Use a drill with the smallest drill bit you can get to make a small hole opposite the vent hole. Using increasingly larger bits work your way up to the size of the probe. Alternatively, you can use a soldering iron to melt a hole. If needed, use a rat-tail file or sandpaper rolled into a cylinder can be used to enlarge the hole and clean up any rough edges.
Insert the hydrometer probe and put the dome on the incubator.
Plug the cord into the back of the incubator.
Add ½ oz of water (15ml). Do not fill the water channel as this will cause the humidity to exceed 60%.
Turn on the incubator set the temperature to 37.5°C and let it warm for at least eight hours.
Arrange eggs on the tray with the pointy end down and tilted slightly toward the center of the incubator. (15-20 deg of tilt is sufficient)
Mark one side of each egg with a pencil or marker.
Position the incubator black temperature sensor probe halfway up the side of the eggs.
Cover eggs with the clear dome.
The temperature should drop by several degrees and the “Work” light should come on. Over the next several hours the temperature should slowly increase back to 37.5°C and the humidity should be kept at 50-60%. Add water as needed. Use a paper towel to absorb and remove a little water if the humidity is too high. If the water channel is full and the humidity is too low, add a rolled up strip of paper towel. This will increase the surface area and raise the humidity.
Check the temperature with a separate thermometer after the first hour and every few hours thereafter. When checking the temperature, turn the eggs by rotating them 180 deg and tilting them 15-20 deg toward the center of the incubator. If your hydrometer also has a thermometer use it to confirm the accuracy of incubator temperature, otherwise you may need to use an oral thermometer or infrared thermometer to confirm the set temperature is within the safe zone for hatching. My unit is spot-on, when set to 37.0°C but overheats the incubator by 2-3 degrees when set to 37.5°C.
Over the next several hours the temperature should slowly increase back to 37.5°C and the humidity should be 55-65%.
Never let the egg temperature reach 39.5°C (103°F) as only one hour at that temperature is likely to kill the embryos. An hour or two below 37.3°C will not harm the embryos but may add a day or two until hatching. Never put the incubator in direct sunlight, it will be impossible to regulate the temperature.
I found that because the incubator is not insulated, the temperature was very difficult to keep in the range of 37.3°C to 37.6°C. I tried placing a folded a hand towel over the dome. With the incubator set to 37.5°C in a few hours, the temperature was over 38.5. But without insulation, the incubator was always running and the temperature at the egg tray was over 39°C and at the top of the eggs under 36°C.
After some experimenting, I determined that folding the towel to about 3” wide and draping it over the dome with the vent hole uncovered and the temperature set to 37.0°C allowed the temperature to stabilize at 37.5°C from the bottom to the top of the dome.
Keep the temperature stable for the duration of the incubation cycle. Add 3-5 ML of water daily to keep humidity at 55%. Turn the eggs every few hours (especially for the first 3 weeks and always, right before bedtime and first thing in the morning). After the first week, you may notice the temperature starting to increase. As the embryo develops their body heat will begin to affect the temperature. Lower the setting and monitor closely. It is better to be 1 degree too cool than 1 degree too hot.
When the first pipping appears on an egg, add water to the channel until level with the raised ledge. Place the hatching pad under the eggs. It may be advisable to put 3 or 4 pieces of tape to hold the dome in place during hatching. Do not open for 48 hours after the first egg hatches.
Our first pipping occurred on day 30, two days later than anticipated.
Hatching pads are “Gripper Pads” from Dollar Tree.
Painter’s tape applied to keep baby duck(s) in, and children out.
As can be seen in the photos, we started with 5 eggs and 3
continued to show growth until lockdown.
Now is the time to prepare a brooder.
Any container can be used to confine the chicks/ducklings. Many folks use a cardboard box lined with newspaper and straw. A plastic tub works well because it doesn't leak, can be cleaned and re-used. Some form of beading material needs to be provided. Pine shavings, straw, or wood pellets are common choices. A source of food, water, and warmth are all essential.
Bowls and shallow pans can be used, but are likely to be messy and require frequent cleaning. Consider using a dedicated poultry feeder and waterers.
Most people use an incandescent lamp as a heat source, but I like using an inferred heater made for reptiles because it doesn’t keep the chicks up at night and they settle into a normal sleep pattern faster.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETUK7I6/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6UCFGP/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYH8N6W/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AEXOEW/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793FBDVJ/?tag=backy-20
Your local feed supply store may have better prices and selections and buying local supports your community.
First, unless you are using small chicken or Quail eggs, do not expect to load 7 eggs. For large eggs and duck eggs, the center tray location should not be used.
Unfortunately, you will need to purchase a few additional items that will increase the odds of a successful hatch. The following are recommended; a hydrometer to monitor humidity, a second thermometer, a mini flashlight to “candle” the eggs, tape and a pad for the chicks during the final hatching phase. You should have a pencil or felt tip pen to make a reference point for turning the eggs and the location of the air sack.
Because the incubator is not insulated, some means of insulating may be necessary to stabilize the temperature. The styrofoam packaging might be used as insulation provided a hole is drilled or melted through it, to line up with the vent hole on the dome. I used a small hand towel folded in thirds draped over the dome.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JHKLLCQ/?tag=backy-20
The above link is for a combined hydrometer/thermometer.
https://www.dollartree.com/foam-gripper-pads-4ct-packs/178052
The above “Jar Gripper Pads” are just the right size and should work well for lockdown.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-12-in-21-led-flashlight-63734.html
I happened to get my flashlight from Harbor Freight, but Walmart also has a good selection, with some priced for as little as $1.00.
Before you assemble the incubator here are the recommended modifications.
There are 3 small metal screws that hold the incubator together on the edge where the dome fits on. In such a wet, humid environment, these will rust quickly if not protected. A dab of fingernail polish should work fine.
The dome will need modification to use the hydrometer. Use a drill with the smallest drill bit you can get to make a small hole opposite the vent hole. Using increasingly larger bits work your way up to the size of the probe. Alternatively, you can use a soldering iron to melt a hole. If needed, use a rat-tail file or sandpaper rolled into a cylinder can be used to enlarge the hole and clean up any rough edges.
Insert the hydrometer probe and put the dome on the incubator.
Plug the cord into the back of the incubator.
Add ½ oz of water (15ml). Do not fill the water channel as this will cause the humidity to exceed 60%.
Turn on the incubator set the temperature to 37.5°C and let it warm for at least eight hours.
Arrange eggs on the tray with the pointy end down and tilted slightly toward the center of the incubator. (15-20 deg of tilt is sufficient)
Mark one side of each egg with a pencil or marker.
Position the incubator black temperature sensor probe halfway up the side of the eggs.
Cover eggs with the clear dome.
The temperature should drop by several degrees and the “Work” light should come on. Over the next several hours the temperature should slowly increase back to 37.5°C and the humidity should be kept at 50-60%. Add water as needed. Use a paper towel to absorb and remove a little water if the humidity is too high. If the water channel is full and the humidity is too low, add a rolled up strip of paper towel. This will increase the surface area and raise the humidity.
Check the temperature with a separate thermometer after the first hour and every few hours thereafter. When checking the temperature, turn the eggs by rotating them 180 deg and tilting them 15-20 deg toward the center of the incubator. If your hydrometer also has a thermometer use it to confirm the accuracy of incubator temperature, otherwise you may need to use an oral thermometer or infrared thermometer to confirm the set temperature is within the safe zone for hatching. My unit is spot-on, when set to 37.0°C but overheats the incubator by 2-3 degrees when set to 37.5°C.
Over the next several hours the temperature should slowly increase back to 37.5°C and the humidity should be 55-65%.
Never let the egg temperature reach 39.5°C (103°F) as only one hour at that temperature is likely to kill the embryos. An hour or two below 37.3°C will not harm the embryos but may add a day or two until hatching. Never put the incubator in direct sunlight, it will be impossible to regulate the temperature.
I found that because the incubator is not insulated, the temperature was very difficult to keep in the range of 37.3°C to 37.6°C. I tried placing a folded a hand towel over the dome. With the incubator set to 37.5°C in a few hours, the temperature was over 38.5. But without insulation, the incubator was always running and the temperature at the egg tray was over 39°C and at the top of the eggs under 36°C.
After some experimenting, I determined that folding the towel to about 3” wide and draping it over the dome with the vent hole uncovered and the temperature set to 37.0°C allowed the temperature to stabilize at 37.5°C from the bottom to the top of the dome.
Keep the temperature stable for the duration of the incubation cycle. Add 3-5 ML of water daily to keep humidity at 55%. Turn the eggs every few hours (especially for the first 3 weeks and always, right before bedtime and first thing in the morning). After the first week, you may notice the temperature starting to increase. As the embryo develops their body heat will begin to affect the temperature. Lower the setting and monitor closely. It is better to be 1 degree too cool than 1 degree too hot.
When the first pipping appears on an egg, add water to the channel until level with the raised ledge. Place the hatching pad under the eggs. It may be advisable to put 3 or 4 pieces of tape to hold the dome in place during hatching. Do not open for 48 hours after the first egg hatches.
Our first pipping occurred on day 30, two days later than anticipated.
Hatching pads are “Gripper Pads” from Dollar Tree.
Painter’s tape applied to keep baby duck(s) in, and children out.
As can be seen in the photos, we started with 5 eggs and 3
continued to show growth until lockdown.
Now is the time to prepare a brooder.
Any container can be used to confine the chicks/ducklings. Many folks use a cardboard box lined with newspaper and straw. A plastic tub works well because it doesn't leak, can be cleaned and re-used. Some form of beading material needs to be provided. Pine shavings, straw, or wood pellets are common choices. A source of food, water, and warmth are all essential.
Bowls and shallow pans can be used, but are likely to be messy and require frequent cleaning. Consider using a dedicated poultry feeder and waterers.
Most people use an incandescent lamp as a heat source, but I like using an inferred heater made for reptiles because it doesn’t keep the chicks up at night and they settle into a normal sleep pattern faster.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETUK7I6/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6UCFGP/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYH8N6W/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AEXOEW/?tag=backy-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793FBDVJ/?tag=backy-20
Your local feed supply store may have better prices and selections and buying local supports your community.
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