Shingling a coop roof

[fmernyer]

What I've been able to glean/questions I have from BYC and the internet:
(the coop roof is not peaked - its slanted in one direction - 6 X 8 feet - about)

1. covering the plywood roof with a layer of tar paper - overlapping the ends about 2 inches - and overlapping the edges about the same.

2. Drip edge all around? (does it go around the higher end and along the sides or just on the lower part of the slanted roof?)

3. Lay down a starter course by cutting the tabs off of the shingles and laying the first course over that? (directly over?) and nailing them down so the edges are flush with the drip edging?

4. Since its not a peaked roof - how do I finish off the slanted roof?

Thanks so much, as always!

 

[kellanv]

For a single pitch roof as described:

1. Overlap and tape if desired. The big key here is starting at the bottom and having each uphill row of paper on TOP of the lower one.

2. Drip edge all around is probably the easiest way to go and still have a clean edge to look at. The one exception I may make on that is the peak of the roof. If you slide the drip edge underneath the shingles like usual, water might hit the flashing and run under your shingles. You should either use that drip edge or a 90 degree flashing on top of the shingles to protect the exposed edge from water.

3. Start at the bottom and work up. Use chalk lines. Lay your first course course with just the part that will be overlapped by the next course up. Then do your second course with the bottom of the shingle at the edge of your roof/drip edge. Try to stagger the shingles horizontally to prevent the gaps between them from lining up and exposing the roof.

4. The drip edge/cap at the top should finish the top. On a two peaked roof you would use cap shingles but this should work.

Hope I was clear!

 

[fmernyer]

Thank you!!

 

[chfite]

For my single slope coop roofs, I let the shingles on the high side edge hang over 4 or 5 inches to keep the water from intruding. It looks odd, but it works and it is a chicken coop.

Chris

 

[kellanv]

Good plan if you want to avoid the flashing work! If you rounded over the plywood deck you could probably bend the shingle over the edge and tack it somewhere, too.

 

[fmernyer]

Thank you. Chris - you do that to avoid the drip edge? (Not sure if that's the same as the flashing - just learning).

 

[Barred Rock Caf]

There are whitish lines on the asphalt-impregnated felt paper ("tar paper"). Near the edge on each side you will see that the white line is approximately SIX inches from the edge (not 2"). It's use is for adequate overlap. Use this as your basis for all subsequent courses (rows) of felt paper. Yes, do cut off the tabs of 3-tab traditional shingles to make a starter course AND be sure to flip the remaining portion of the shingle so that the tar strips are close to the bottom edge of the roof. This is critical so that the first exposed course of shingles (those with the tabs left intact) have a tar strip for their bottom portion to seal to. This helps to prevent wind from uplifting the bottom edge and possible tearing and blowing them off.

Remember that Mother Nature is both you and your coop's ally and enemy. Watch one day as wind-driven rains pound structures and penetrate seemingly impenetrable parts, especially roofs! D-edge, or drip edge, is meant to cosmetically cover the edges of your roof's deck substrate (OSB, plywood, what have you) AND, more importantly, prevent water from coming into contact to the vulnerable edge surfaces of these pieces.

If you need any more advise, just ask on the forum; there is a whole lot of wisdom and experience here.

Barred Rock Cafe

 

[fmernyer]

We didn't leave much of an overhang with the plywood roof. Should we go for the wider/longer drip edge? Also - any recommendation for the material? (aluminum vs vinyl?)

Thanks!

 

[kellanv]

So the roof itself does not overhang the walls very much? In that case, yes try to find a drip edge that extends out as much as possible while still being installed correctly. Most of them sort of look like a mis-shapen "T" with the top part of the T extending under the first row of shingles and the other side serving as the drip edge. You want the drip edge side as long as you can in relation to the vertical part since the vertical should be butted up against the edge of the plywood roof deck.

Hope that was clear!

 

[fmernyer]

Yes - thank you! Is there a preference between aluminum and vinyl? I imagine the vinyl will last longer and withstand bumps and wear....