Homestead
Welcome all to my Chicken Coop and Run build article! I appreciate you taking the time to stop by to read and/or just look at the pictures.
Just a bit of forewarning, I tend to OVER TAKE pictures as I like to to capture the whole process from start to finish.
Background:
A year ago, my family and I moved out of the city and further into the country (for many different reasons, we will leave it at that!
). I've never lived in the country before (yes, I was a city person my whole life), so this has been an exciting new adventure - in its own way!
The farmer next to me, whom has become a good friend, has hundreds of chickens and the kids loved (so did I!!) going over and watching them. The farmer taught them all about the chickens, how to feed them, pick up eggs, and wash & dry. They were having a time of their life!
The first time we ate farm fresh eggs, I knew I never wanted to go back to store bought eggs.
Fast forward to now, the coop and run is completely built (I am still finishing up some small stuff here and there) and we have 12 chickens (11 hens and 1 rooster). All were supposed to be hens, but the hatchery accidentally gave us a rooster!
Honestly, I should have created the build log as I was working on the coop and run, However, this is the first time I have EVER tackled a project like this before. I am not very handy, but have learned a TON from this adventure!
Before I go on, I want to give a special thanks to a couple of folks. Without the help from them, this project would not have been possible.
First, to Farmer J, for teaching me the basics about builiding and using air tools, helping me design and prep the area for the foundation, and just overall helping with the build! You are truly a great neighbor and friend!
Second, without the hand holding help from @U_Stormcrow , I would not have one AMAZING roof, porch, or even a finished coop and run. I cannot thank you enough for the time you spent drafting a roof for my build, documenting the steps on how to build and install it, answering my hundreds of questions I asked along the way, and even teaching me how to measure and cut birds mouth for the rafters!!! For someone to help a person whom they never have met, let alone a stranger on a chicken forum, really speaks volumes about what a great person you are. I never once took what you did for granted and I hope the hundreds of pictures I sent of the build process along the way shows my appreciation for the time you put into drawing it and seeing it come to furition. Thanks again!
Okay, so what's next...yes that's right, the planning...BUT, before we head into it, I have to show you the my baby chicks and the brooder I made for them!
Just a bit of forewarning, I tend to OVER TAKE pictures as I like to to capture the whole process from start to finish.
Background:
A year ago, my family and I moved out of the city and further into the country (for many different reasons, we will leave it at that!
). I've never lived in the country before (yes, I was a city person my whole life), so this has been an exciting new adventure - in its own way!The farmer next to me, whom has become a good friend, has hundreds of chickens and the kids loved (so did I!!) going over and watching them. The farmer taught them all about the chickens, how to feed them, pick up eggs, and wash & dry. They were having a time of their life!
The first time we ate farm fresh eggs, I knew I never wanted to go back to store bought eggs.
Fast forward to now, the coop and run is completely built (I am still finishing up some small stuff here and there) and we have 12 chickens (11 hens and 1 rooster). All were supposed to be hens, but the hatchery accidentally gave us a rooster!
Honestly, I should have created the build log as I was working on the coop and run, However, this is the first time I have EVER tackled a project like this before. I am not very handy, but have learned a TON from this adventure!
Before I go on, I want to give a special thanks to a couple of folks. Without the help from them, this project would not have been possible.
First, to Farmer J, for teaching me the basics about builiding and using air tools, helping me design and prep the area for the foundation, and just overall helping with the build! You are truly a great neighbor and friend!
Second, without the hand holding help from @U_Stormcrow , I would not have one AMAZING roof, porch, or even a finished coop and run. I cannot thank you enough for the time you spent drafting a roof for my build, documenting the steps on how to build and install it, answering my hundreds of questions I asked along the way, and even teaching me how to measure and cut birds mouth for the rafters!!! For someone to help a person whom they never have met, let alone a stranger on a chicken forum, really speaks volumes about what a great person you are. I never once took what you did for granted and I hope the hundreds of pictures I sent of the build process along the way shows my appreciation for the time you put into drawing it and seeing it come to furition. Thanks again!
Okay, so what's next...yes that's right, the planning...BUT, before we head into it, I have to show you the my baby chicks and the brooder I made for them!
Brooder & Chicks
I'm sure I am not the only one that finished the brooder the night before picking up their chicks and without a full plan for a coop and run!
I'll try to make this quick so we can get onto the coop.
The idea for my brooder came from some I saw online (I don't remember where it was to give them credit). I wanted it to be waist high, portable, and easy access for food, water, and cleaning. I think I achieved it - the chicks seemed to enjoy their temporary home!
The brooder consisted of two parts, the base and the top. This was extremely useful when it came time for cleaning and changing out the bedding. The base was built from extra 4x4's, OSB and T1-11 I had in the barn. I added wheels so it could be easily moved if/when needed.
The structure of the top was made from 2x2's, then wrapped in hardware cloth. It started out with one big opening door, but was they started to grow, I ended up changing it to two doors.
Their water and food feeder was made from PVC pipes. I ended up using 4 water nipples to reduce waste and keep them from drowning themselves. I was pretty surprised how quickly they caught on and used it right away. As I put each chick into the brooder, I would touch it's beak to the nipple so they could feel the water. Next thing, they were drinking like they have done it all their life (haha day old chicks
)
For their food, I drilled 8 wide holes to allow them room for eating and help prevent fighting over food (which, they still fought at times!)
I used two heat lamps. each one hung from the inside at first. As they started to grow and temperatures changed, I had to eventually move the lights outside of the brooder, to the top and hung from the barn ceiling on a pulley system.
Now, come the chicks! I had to add 2x4 strips on the floor in front of the food to make steps. I realized the food was a little too raised and the chicks needed a boost!
Someone needs their vent cleaned!!!
Here are some grouping pictures of each chick:
More Picture chicks in the brooder!
That's all for the chicks & brooder. Let's head to the planning of the coop and run!
I'll try to make this quick so we can get onto the coop.
The idea for my brooder came from some I saw online (I don't remember where it was to give them credit). I wanted it to be waist high, portable, and easy access for food, water, and cleaning. I think I achieved it - the chicks seemed to enjoy their temporary home!
The brooder consisted of two parts, the base and the top. This was extremely useful when it came time for cleaning and changing out the bedding. The base was built from extra 4x4's, OSB and T1-11 I had in the barn. I added wheels so it could be easily moved if/when needed.
The structure of the top was made from 2x2's, then wrapped in hardware cloth. It started out with one big opening door, but was they started to grow, I ended up changing it to two doors.
Their water and food feeder was made from PVC pipes. I ended up using 4 water nipples to reduce waste and keep them from drowning themselves. I was pretty surprised how quickly they caught on and used it right away. As I put each chick into the brooder, I would touch it's beak to the nipple so they could feel the water. Next thing, they were drinking like they have done it all their life (haha day old chicks
)For their food, I drilled 8 wide holes to allow them room for eating and help prevent fighting over food (which, they still fought at times!)
I used two heat lamps. each one hung from the inside at first. As they started to grow and temperatures changed, I had to eventually move the lights outside of the brooder, to the top and hung from the barn ceiling on a pulley system.
Now, come the chicks! I had to add 2x4 strips on the floor in front of the food to make steps. I realized the food was a little too raised and the chicks needed a boost!
Someone needs their vent cleaned!!!
Here are some grouping pictures of each chick:
More Picture chicks in the brooder!
That's all for the chicks & brooder. Let's head to the planning of the coop and run!
Planning
I had a few ideas of what I wanted (in a way). I wanted the run to be enclosed from most of the elements, while allowing the chickens to have ample amount of airflow. Full disclosure, I really didn't know the importance of air flow until speaking with several BYC users. Thanks for explaining it and how crucial it is to have.
I spent many nights (probably 4+ months) looking at different coop builds. I was searching for the "correct" way to build it and house my chickens. After reading and talking with folks, I discovered there is no "one" way to have your chicken setup. I learned what works for one person may not work for someone else. It really boils down to each persons needs and what they want to get out of it. I wanted enough space to grow my flock up to max 24, but also not too big, where it would have a lot of empty space and use more resources to keep it heated in the winter time.
The farmer next to me really helped with the planning. Our land has a small slope to one side of the yard. When it rains, all the water goes to the one side (yes, the side where I built my coop) and sits. It's NOT too bad, but overtime the farmer told me I would deal with a really muddy mess (like he does with his), and suggested I build a foundation with 6x6's and gravel. This will raise me up several inches above ground, but also give me a flat even surface to build from.
Here is what I came up with after talking with the wife and farmer J:
I spent many nights (probably 4+ months) looking at different coop builds. I was searching for the "correct" way to build it and house my chickens. After reading and talking with folks, I discovered there is no "one" way to have your chicken setup. I learned what works for one person may not work for someone else. It really boils down to each persons needs and what they want to get out of it. I wanted enough space to grow my flock up to max 24, but also not too big, where it would have a lot of empty space and use more resources to keep it heated in the winter time.
The farmer next to me really helped with the planning. Our land has a small slope to one side of the yard. When it rains, all the water goes to the one side (yes, the side where I built my coop) and sits. It's NOT too bad, but overtime the farmer told me I would deal with a really muddy mess (like he does with his), and suggested I build a foundation with 6x6's and gravel. This will raise me up several inches above ground, but also give me a flat even surface to build from.
Here is what I came up with after talking with the wife and farmer J:
- Raised foundation so we don't have to deal with a muddy mess.
- Walk-in coop and run
- Easy way to clean and maintain the bedding and poop
- Raised nest boxes that allow us to collect the eggs from outside (especially if we are not home, it will be easier to ask someone to collect them for us)
- Fully enclosed and safe from predators.
- Great ventilation. The more the better.
- Electric to have lights at night, heating lamps for very cold winter days, and cameras.
- A porch! Well, because porches look cool, lol!
- According to my wife, does not look ugly or trashy!!!
Design
As I stated, I spent many nights (probably 4+ months) looking at different coop builds. Once I got an idea of what I wanted, I needed to find plans for sale or free that I could modify to meet my needs. Since I am a novice when it comes to construction, building, etc, I had no idea how to even deign designing my own plans from scratch.
During the planning and designing of the coop, the roost bars and nesting boxes were not part of it - I knew I needed them, but wasn't entirely sure where they would go. I had some ideas, but they were just ideas. After the frame of the coop was built, I started to look at window placement, roost bars and nesting boxes. The placements should have been solidified during the planning and design. As they say, hind sight is 20/20. To my defense though, I was modifying plans I found online and knew some of it would be winged as I went through the building process.
I found the below plans from Construct101 - the best part, it was free!
The plans I found were 8'x8' Coop with a 10'x8'attached run. The coop size would work for now (at the time it was good enough for my needs, but now that it's been a few months since it is complete, I could have gone bigger, maybe 12' or 16' x8'. Oh well, you live and learn and I can always add on later if I need too.
Talking with Farmer J, he suggested the run was too small and recommended at least 20'x'8'. This way it would give me ample space for the chickens, food, water, swings to play, etc.
Also, I had to take in consideration the foundation for the structure to be built on due to the slope/water issue. Obviously it needed to be bigger than the coop and run. I bought some graph paper and started to design the dimensions of how the 8'x8' coop with 20'x'8 run would look. We figured the foundation would be 28'x12'. This gives enough room for the run, coop and porch, with some added space around it.
Here is what the farmer and I came up with.:
I wasn't exactly sure at the time how I wanted the nesting boxes to open from the outside. Whether they open top up, or middle down, so I sketched both. I ended up making the middle down (it was easier for the kids to grab the eggs, and keeps water from come in during raining days or run offs.
Here is how I envisioned the porch, coop, and run to look...I never said I was an artist, but it was a simple sketch! lol This below picture was used to give @U_Stormcrow an idea of what I wanted. He then took this and turned it into to something magnificent. Thank you!!!
Now that I had a good start on my plan, I put together a material list for the lumber and doubled the materials for the run since it was going to be 20'x'8'. I wanted to see the cost breakdown of each item, the total cost for the quantity, and total cost for coop and run. In addition, to the cost breakdown, I compared the cost of lumber between three different manufactures; Home Depot, Lowes, and Holmes. This also allowed me to see where I could purchases the different items I needed at the best cost.
Note: The costs in the spreadsheet was based on the original Coop and Run plans, NOT the modified plans that @U_Stormcrow assisted with. Also, the spreadsheet did not account for the 6x6's used in the foundation or the metal roof. However, the wood I purchased for the original plans worked out in my favor and was able to compensate for the changes @U_Stormcrow made.
It turned out that 95% of the materials were purchased from Home Depot, 4% from Lowes, and 1% from Holmes. The reason being, I was able to purchase most of all the wood I need at 70% off the price. Yes, you read that right! All the wood, well 98% of it for the coop and run was cull lumber. Even the metal roof from Lowes was heavily discounted due to rust from an upper shelf that dripped onto the sheets! The 6x6's for the foundation and the T1-11 siding were purchased at full price.
The total cost was around $3,100. First time building something like this, but I thought the price was decent. Looking at what it costs for 8'x8' or 8'x10' sheds, run up to $3,800!
On to the build!
During the planning and designing of the coop, the roost bars and nesting boxes were not part of it - I knew I needed them, but wasn't entirely sure where they would go. I had some ideas, but they were just ideas. After the frame of the coop was built, I started to look at window placement, roost bars and nesting boxes. The placements should have been solidified during the planning and design. As they say, hind sight is 20/20. To my defense though, I was modifying plans I found online and knew some of it would be winged as I went through the building process.
I found the below plans from Construct101 - the best part, it was free!
The plans I found were 8'x8' Coop with a 10'x8'attached run. The coop size would work for now (at the time it was good enough for my needs, but now that it's been a few months since it is complete, I could have gone bigger, maybe 12' or 16' x8'. Oh well, you live and learn and I can always add on later if I need too.
Talking with Farmer J, he suggested the run was too small and recommended at least 20'x'8'. This way it would give me ample space for the chickens, food, water, swings to play, etc.
Also, I had to take in consideration the foundation for the structure to be built on due to the slope/water issue. Obviously it needed to be bigger than the coop and run. I bought some graph paper and started to design the dimensions of how the 8'x8' coop with 20'x'8 run would look. We figured the foundation would be 28'x12'. This gives enough room for the run, coop and porch, with some added space around it.
Here is what the farmer and I came up with.:
I wasn't exactly sure at the time how I wanted the nesting boxes to open from the outside. Whether they open top up, or middle down, so I sketched both. I ended up making the middle down (it was easier for the kids to grab the eggs, and keeps water from come in during raining days or run offs.
Here is how I envisioned the porch, coop, and run to look...I never said I was an artist, but it was a simple sketch! lol
This below picture was used to give @U_Stormcrow an idea of what I wanted. He then took this and turned it into to something magnificent. Thank you!!!
Now that I had a good start on my plan, I put together a material list for the lumber and doubled the materials for the run since it was going to be 20'x'8'. I wanted to see the cost breakdown of each item, the total cost for the quantity, and total cost for coop and run. In addition, to the cost breakdown, I compared the cost of lumber between three different manufactures; Home Depot, Lowes, and Holmes. This also allowed me to see where I could purchases the different items I needed at the best cost.
Note: The costs in the spreadsheet was based on the original Coop and Run plans, NOT the modified plans that @U_Stormcrow assisted with. Also, the spreadsheet did not account for the 6x6's used in the foundation or the metal roof. However, the wood I purchased for the original plans worked out in my favor and was able to compensate for the changes @U_Stormcrow made.
It turned out that 95% of the materials were purchased from Home Depot, 4% from Lowes, and 1% from Holmes. The reason being, I was able to purchase most of all the wood I need at 70% off the price. Yes, you read that right! All the wood, well 98% of it for the coop and run was cull lumber. Even the metal roof from Lowes was heavily discounted due to rust from an upper shelf that dripped onto the sheets! The 6x6's for the foundation and the T1-11 siding were purchased at full price.
The total cost was around $3,100. First time building something like this, but I thought the price was decent. Looking at what it costs for 8'x8' or 8'x10' sheds, run up to $3,800!
On to the build!
Build Phase 1 - Foundation & Coop Frame
First thing first, I need to purchase the wood!
I had to make a couple trips, but here is a majority of the wood purchased day 1!
Most of the treated lumber was still pretty wet, so I staggered them and placed a shop fan in front of it to move air through for quick drying.
While waiting on the weather to cooperate and clear up for prepping the space for the foundation, I start building the coop walls.
The weather finally cleared up, so I was able to start cutting the sod. The size of the foundation is 30'x14'.
A majority of the work was completed in the evening. Many long nights working until 2:30AM!
Staked and ran line to make sure the ground is leveled.
Covered up with a tarp to prevent it becoming a muddy mess during rain until The farmer and I could set the foundation wood and pack the gravel.
Truck came to deliver 6 tons of clean 304 Limestone!
Finished setting the 6x6's. I forgot to take a picture, but the ends of the 6x6's are cut so they interlock together on the top and bottom. These are locked together with 6" lag bolts. We also hammered rebar spikes 5' into the ground. This is to make sure they are sturdy and locked together.
I added some braces on the sides where the 6x6's interlock together.
To prevent weeds from growing up into the coop and run, I laid Geo-Textile fabric down. It's strong enough to not rip, but also allows water to filter through to the ground.
Compacting the rocks to make them tight and level for building the coop and run.
Now it's time to put the base of the coop. The two 2x4's sticking out is to tie the base of the coop and run together. The goal was to make it one whole sturdy structure.
Wooohoo, the coop has 4 framed walls!
It felt so good to step back and see a framed structure standing! This was all new to me.
On to build Phase 2 - Run Frame!
I had to make a couple trips, but here is a majority of the wood purchased day 1!
Most of the treated lumber was still pretty wet, so I staggered them and placed a shop fan in front of it to move air through for quick drying.
While waiting on the weather to cooperate and clear up for prepping the space for the foundation, I start building the coop walls.
The weather finally cleared up, so I was able to start cutting the sod. The size of the foundation is 30'x14'.
A majority of the work was completed in the evening. Many long nights working until 2:30AM!
Staked and ran line to make sure the ground is leveled.
Covered up with a tarp to prevent it becoming a muddy mess during rain until The farmer and I could set the foundation wood and pack the gravel.
Truck came to deliver 6 tons of clean 304 Limestone!
Finished setting the 6x6's. I forgot to take a picture, but the ends of the 6x6's are cut so they interlock together on the top and bottom. These are locked together with 6" lag bolts. We also hammered rebar spikes 5' into the ground. This is to make sure they are sturdy and locked together.
I added some braces on the sides where the 6x6's interlock together.
To prevent weeds from growing up into the coop and run, I laid Geo-Textile fabric down. It's strong enough to not rip, but also allows water to filter through to the ground.
Compacting the rocks to make them tight and level for building the coop and run.
Now it's time to put the base of the coop. The two 2x4's sticking out is to tie the base of the coop and run together. The goal was to make it one whole sturdy structure.
Wooohoo, the coop has 4 framed walls!
It felt so good to step back and see a framed structure standing! This was all new to me.
On to build Phase 2 - Run Frame!
BUILD Phase 2 - Run Frame
Putting the run frame up was tricky. The front and back were constructed in two 10' sections and the end (away from the coop) was an 8' section. As I started to put up the walls and nail them to the 4x4, I realized I needed cross-supports to help hold the walls in place or the wind would bring them down! I was able to provide more support by adding a double header. The double header overlapped to each wall and was able help secure the run walls into the coop.
Note: In the first picture you can see the "puzzle" piece cut into the 4x4's. Once the 4x4's are put in place, then they are secured together with lag bolts. The same cuts were made to the 6x6 foundation frame (which I forgot to take a picture of, but I am glad this picture shows it).
Here is another picture that shows how the 4x4's inter-lock together like a "puzzle".
I still was unsure of the placement for the windows. I added a few cripple studs in for wall support, angled support on the corners and the 4' wide doorway at the end of the run for clean out.
I have a standing structure for a coop and run! I'm amazed at the work completed so far. On to building the rafters and porch!
Note: In the first picture you can see the "puzzle" piece cut into the 4x4's. Once the 4x4's are put in place, then they are secured together with lag bolts. The same cuts were made to the 6x6 foundation frame (which I forgot to take a picture of, but I am glad this picture shows it).
Here is another picture that shows how the 4x4's inter-lock together like a "puzzle".
I still was unsure of the placement for the windows. I added a few cripple studs in for wall support, angled support on the corners and the 4' wide doorway at the end of the run for clean out.
I have a standing structure for a coop and run! I'm amazed at the work completed so far. On to building the rafters and porch!
BUILD Phase 3 - Coop Rafters and Porch
Here's where the magic of @U_Stormcrow comes into play. I simply cannot thank you enough for your willingness to go out of your way to help me. I will never forgot this moment and you DESERVE 100% of the credit!
First up is cutting the pieces needed for the pony wall, ridge pole, ridge pole supports, and the crutches for each of the ends of the rafters. If this is new to you (as it was for me), I had no idea what a pony wall was. It's a way to raise up and provide support for the rafters. The pony wall is also used to provide great ventilation into the coop.
Note: There was a mistake in the height of the pony wall and ridge pole. I will point it out below. I believe I gave @U_Stormcrow a wrong measurement which caused this. He quickly made the adjusts for me and I cut new pieces and installed the new pony wall and ridge support. Small set back, but accidents happen! All good.
The plywood triangles were used as temporary braces to stiffen the pony wall and ridge pole during the build.
Pony wall and ridge pole for the coop are up!
Now, it's time to start making the rafters. I had trouble making the birds mouth, but after speaking with @U_Stormcrow, he showed me how to properly use a speed square to make the birds mouth!
Here is the original size of the pony wall and ridge pole. In the next few pictures you will see I had to remove it and install the new ones which look much taller!
Installed the taller ridge pole...at night! I don't have a picture of the new pony wall after install.
Instead of cutting one at a time and installing, I cut the birds mouth for each one then installed.
Back side of the coop rafters are installed!
Here is a good picture displaying the new pony wall size. It's much taller.
View of the rafters from inside looking up!
This was one of my favorite pictures. Stepping back that day and looking at it was just amazing. Never have done anything like this before, I couldn't believe my eyes!
Farmer J came over to help hold the 4x4 porch posts while I screw them in with lag bolts and installed the header. Thanks for your help Farmer J!
Added the crutches to the end coop rafters.
On to the Run rafters!
First up is cutting the pieces needed for the pony wall, ridge pole, ridge pole supports, and the crutches for each of the ends of the rafters. If this is new to you (as it was for me), I had no idea what a pony wall was. It's a way to raise up and provide support for the rafters. The pony wall is also used to provide great ventilation into the coop.
Note: There was a mistake in the height of the pony wall and ridge pole. I will point it out below. I believe I gave @U_Stormcrow a wrong measurement which caused this. He quickly made the adjusts for me and I cut new pieces and installed the new pony wall and ridge support. Small set back, but accidents happen! All good.
The plywood triangles were used as temporary braces to stiffen the pony wall and ridge pole during the build.
Pony wall and ridge pole for the coop are up!
Now, it's time to start making the rafters. I had trouble making the birds mouth, but after speaking with @U_Stormcrow, he showed me how to properly use a speed square to make the birds mouth!
Here is the original size of the pony wall and ridge pole. In the next few pictures you will see I had to remove it and install the new ones which look much taller!
Installed the taller ridge pole...at night! I don't have a picture of the new pony wall after install.
Instead of cutting one at a time and installing, I cut the birds mouth for each one then installed.
Back side of the coop rafters are installed!
Here is a good picture displaying the new pony wall size. It's much taller.
View of the rafters from inside looking up!
This was one of my favorite pictures. Stepping back that day and looking at it was just amazing. Never have done anything like this before, I couldn't believe my eyes!
Farmer J came over to help hold the 4x4 porch posts while I screw them in with lag bolts and installed the header. Thanks for your help Farmer J!
Added the crutches to the end coop rafters.
On to the Run rafters!
BUILD Phase 4 - Run Rafters, Purlins & Run Floor
Making good progress, but still have ways to go. The next step was difficult. I had to tie in the run ridge pole to the coop rafters. It sounds easier than it was (at least for me!). The roof of the coop is higher and slightly offset because of the porch and the "middle" didn't align with the middle of the run.
In order to make this work, I had to use a rafter tie off centered on coop rafter, but was centered to the run. As the ridge pole was going up, I had to use 2x4's (vertical) to support the ridge pole while the rafters were being installed.
For support connecting 2 10' ridge poles together, I used 2x6 braces to "sandwich" the poles. To make life easier, I installed the rafter ties on the ridge pole being installing it.
To support the run walls during the installiation, I screwed in multiple 2x4's to to keep the walls at 8'.
I finished installing most of the rafters at night. Fascia boards are next!
The next two pictures are another favorite of mine. That morning when I came out and looked at the coop and run, I was in total shock. To think, my hands were able to make something of this magnitude, I was ecstatic.
Installing the purlins were quite easy. I just needed to make sure they were spaced properly for the metal roof sheets.
To support the floor boards, I put 2x2's along the sides of the run. I then took 2x4's, 2x6's,or to scap wodd I had to use as supports running the length of the run. This actually worked out well and don't have a problem..so far!
In order to make this work, I had to use a rafter tie off centered on coop rafter, but was centered to the run. As the ridge pole was going up, I had to use 2x4's (vertical) to support the ridge pole while the rafters were being installed.
For support connecting 2 10' ridge poles together, I used 2x6 braces to "sandwich" the poles. To make life easier, I installed the rafter ties on the ridge pole being installing it.
To support the run walls during the installiation, I screwed in multiple 2x4's to to keep the walls at 8'.
I finished installing most of the rafters at night. Fascia boards are next!
The next two pictures are another favorite of mine. That morning when I came out and looked at the coop and run, I was in total shock. To think, my hands were able to make something of this magnitude, I was ecstatic.
Installing the purlins were quite easy. I just needed to make sure they were spaced properly for the metal roof sheets.
To support the floor boards, I put 2x2's along the sides of the run. I then took 2x4's, 2x6's,or to scap wodd I had to use as supports running the length of the run. This actually worked out well and don't have a problem..so far!
BUILD Phase 5 - Paint & Nesting Boxes
Prior to installing the hardware cloth, T1-11 siding, metal roof, etc., I wanted to paint the structure. Visually to me, it looks better, and not to mention, the paint will help slow down the weathering process of the wood.
Painting went by really quick. Last year, I purchased an airless sprayer from Harbor Freight to paint our barn. I highly recommend one as they are very convenient.
Once the paint dried, I finished installing the last few boards for the run floor. Afterwards, I started building the nesting box.
I have to give another thanks to @U_Stormcrow and @NatJ for advice with the nesting box height. I kept going back and forth on, "how high it should be" or "weather I should have it floor level". I ended up 3' off the ground which allowed me to utilize the floor space if needed for dividing out (which it did - you will see in the updates section!).
As stated earlier, the nesting box needed to be accessible from the exterior and easy to open (especially for the kids to help collect eggs).
Here's were I installed the last few boards for the floor.
The nesting box is 6' wide, with 1' available on the left and right of the box.
More night time work!
It was raining the next day. Work still needed to be done, so I setup my 10'x10' tent and continued building the boxes!
Oh, I forgot I built the frame for their window by the roosting bar!
Next up, installing the siding!
Painting went by really quick. Last year, I purchased an airless sprayer from Harbor Freight to paint our barn. I highly recommend one as they are very convenient.
Once the paint dried, I finished installing the last few boards for the run floor. Afterwards, I started building the nesting box.
I have to give another thanks to @U_Stormcrow and @NatJ for advice with the nesting box height. I kept going back and forth on, "how high it should be" or "weather I should have it floor level". I ended up 3' off the ground which allowed me to utilize the floor space if needed for dividing out (which it did - you will see in the updates section!).
As stated earlier, the nesting box needed to be accessible from the exterior and easy to open (especially for the kids to help collect eggs).
Here's were I installed the last few boards for the floor.
The nesting box is 6' wide, with 1' available on the left and right of the box.
More night time work!
It was raining the next day. Work still needed to be done, so I setup my 10'x10' tent and continued building the boxes!
Oh, I forgot I built the frame for their window by the roosting bar!
Next up, installing the siding!
BUILD Phase 6 - Install Siding & Paint
Now comes the fun part, installing the siding and seeing the building come together!
Farmer J helped me install the siding. Before we started, I figured out where I wanted my front windows and door. The windows were modified months later and will be in the updates section.
The 4'x8' sheets of T1-11 siding were too tall, so we cut them to size. The tricky part was cutting out the space for the nesting box! The slightest bump or wrong move could have snapped the "C" cutout!
I can't recall, but I believe we finished the siding around midnight. The next day, I setup the airless sprayer and put several coats on the siding. I was very surprised at how much the T1-11 soaked up the paint! While I had the sprayer out, I painted some touch ups on the purlins.
Even the front panels had a couple small strips where the cutout of the door was.
Surprise! One of my chicks laid an egg in their temporary home! Now that egg laying was beginning, I really needed to step up and finish the coop so they can have a permanent home!
On to the installation of the coop hardware cloth and roof!
Farmer J helped me install the siding. Before we started, I figured out where I wanted my front windows and door. The windows were modified months later and will be in the updates section.
The 4'x8' sheets of T1-11 siding were too tall, so we cut them to size. The tricky part was cutting out the space for the nesting box! The slightest bump or wrong move could have snapped the "C" cutout!
I can't recall, but I believe we finished the siding around midnight. The next day, I setup the airless sprayer and put several coats on the siding. I was very surprised at how much the T1-11 soaked up the paint! While I had the sprayer out, I painted some touch ups on the purlins.
Even the front panels had a couple small strips where the cutout of the door was.
Surprise! One of my chicks laid an egg in their temporary home! Now that egg laying was beginning, I really needed to step up and finish the coop so they can have a permanent home!
On to the installation of the coop hardware cloth and roof!
BUILD Phase 7 - Coop Hardware Cloth, Roof & Porch
Prior to installing the roof, I installed the hardware cloth over the pony wall and the two front windows for critter control. Plus it was easier to stand on the ladder with my head above the rafters for hammering in nails! I ended up using roofing nails to hold the hardware cloth due to the plastic washers. It was the cheapest option. Looking back, I would have done it differently and use a form of roofing screws with washers (the same ones I used on the polycarbonite panels).
On the gable end of the coop, I used polycarbonate panels to cover the opening. I wanted to have great ventilation (which I do), but needed to be mindful of the weather conditions for my chickens. These panels were cut to fit around the crutch supports on the rafters.
Installing metal roofing sheets wasn't too bad. Cutting the sheets to make sure I had a straight line down the fascia board was a little challenging. Prior to installing the sheets, I pre-drilled the roofing screw holes to try and have a nice straight line...it kinda worked out!
Yes, I was installing roof sheets in the dark (I had lights though!)!
The door was interesting! I initially was going to make the door from wood and use the existing T1-11 siding. However, one day driving home from work, someone put out a storm door with all the hardware for FREE! I whipped my truck around so fast and picked up the door!
Now the door was a regular height door, but my coop door height was not. So to make it fit, I sawed off the bottom part of the storm door! I think the white door gives the coop a nice accent!
I was so mad at myself when I installed the ridge gap cover. I should have used clamps to hold down one side and put a holding screw in one end to keep it straight. Did I do that...NO! LOL!! I just started screwing in and when I got to the end, it wasn't straight! Oh well, lesson learned for next time. However, when it rains there is no water coming in...That's a plus!
Oh, yes, it started to rain when I was installing the ridge gap cover and continued until I was finished. Probably not the smartest idea, but I was determined to get this coop livable for the chickens!
Wooohooo! We have a livable coop for the chickens!
Here is their temporary setup until I get the inside situated!
Time for the porch. This was important because I didn't need anyone, including myself tripping and breaking a leg while taking care of the chickens!
Porch is complete! I need to put steps, which I still haven't done! It's on the list!
Next up, run roof and roost bars!
On the gable end of the coop, I used polycarbonate panels to cover the opening. I wanted to have great ventilation (which I do), but needed to be mindful of the weather conditions for my chickens. These panels were cut to fit around the crutch supports on the rafters.
Installing metal roofing sheets wasn't too bad. Cutting the sheets to make sure I had a straight line down the fascia board was a little challenging. Prior to installing the sheets, I pre-drilled the roofing screw holes to try and have a nice straight line...it kinda worked out!
Yes, I was installing roof sheets in the dark (I had lights though!)!
The door was interesting! I initially was going to make the door from wood and use the existing T1-11 siding. However, one day driving home from work, someone put out a storm door with all the hardware for FREE! I whipped my truck around so fast and picked up the door!
Now the door was a regular height door, but my coop door height was not. So to make it fit, I sawed off the bottom part of the storm door! I think the white door gives the coop a nice accent!
I was so mad at myself when I installed the ridge gap cover. I should have used clamps to hold down one side and put a holding screw in one end to keep it straight. Did I do that...NO! LOL!! I just started screwing in and when I got to the end, it wasn't straight! Oh well, lesson learned for next time. However, when it rains there is no water coming in...That's a plus!
Oh, yes, it started to rain when I was installing the ridge gap cover and continued until I was finished. Probably not the smartest idea, but I was determined to get this coop livable for the chickens!
Wooohooo! We have a livable coop for the chickens!
Here is their temporary setup until I get the inside situated!
Time for the porch. This was important because I didn't need anyone, including myself tripping and breaking a leg while taking care of the chickens!
Porch is complete! I need to put steps, which I still haven't done! It's on the list!
Next up, run roof and roost bars!
BUILD Phase 8 - Run Roof & Coop Roost Bar
Now that I have the coop out of the way (for the most part at least) and the chickens are able to live it in it, it's time for the run roof! The time I started the run roof was a week later due to being gone for a work trip.
When I returned home, I took all the measurements needed for the sheet lengths and made the cuts. Then I pre-drilled the holes for the roofing screws. Admittedly, I did mess up on a few of the sheets. I mis-measured the purlin lengths to keep all the screws in line. Needless to say, on a couple of the sheets, a few holes did not line up! I was so pissed!
Thankfully, I didn't pre-drill all the sheets at once. I was able to use metal tape and sealant. No issues with leaks! Woohooo!
The roof is complete! I was extremely happy when I got to the end. I still have more work to do on the run, but at least the roof is finished (well, I still have to put the ridge cap on). I don't recall having a picture of it after I finished, but I made sure to install it straight this time. I used clamps to hold it down. Then took measurements to make sure the distance was equal on both sides. Everything checked out so I started to install the screws.
@U_Stormcrow gave me advice on placement of the roost bar. He recommended at least 12" away from the wall to prevent chicken poop from making a mess on it. I have zero problems with poop on the wall!
I used 2x6's on sides for support and notched out a hole big enough to hold a 2x3. The farmer had an extra 2x3 that I was able to use.
I added a second roost bar below the main one but angled at 18" away from the main roost bar. This was @U_Stormcrow advice as well to prevent the chickens from pooping on one another!
Here's the chickens sleeping at night! I think they are enjoying their new home and nice roost bar with a window to look out!!!
Oh, and one of the hens used the nesting box! Woohoo!
Next up, installing the run hardware cloth and building the man doors.
When I returned home, I took all the measurements needed for the sheet lengths and made the cuts. Then I pre-drilled the holes for the roofing screws. Admittedly, I did mess up on a few of the sheets. I mis-measured the purlin lengths to keep all the screws in line. Needless to say, on a couple of the sheets, a few holes did not line up! I was so pissed!
Thankfully, I didn't pre-drill all the sheets at once. I was able to use metal tape and sealant. No issues with leaks! Woohooo!
The roof is complete! I was extremely happy when I got to the end. I still have more work to do on the run, but at least the roof is finished (well, I still have to put the ridge cap on). I don't recall having a picture of it after I finished, but I made sure to install it straight this time. I used clamps to hold it down. Then took measurements to make sure the distance was equal on both sides. Everything checked out so I started to install the screws.
@U_Stormcrow gave me advice on placement of the roost bar. He recommended at least 12" away from the wall to prevent chicken poop from making a mess on it. I have zero problems with poop on the wall!
I used 2x6's on sides for support and notched out a hole big enough to hold a 2x3. The farmer had an extra 2x3 that I was able to use.
I added a second roost bar below the main one but angled at 18" away from the main roost bar. This was @U_Stormcrow advice as well to prevent the chickens from pooping on one another!
Here's the chickens sleeping at night! I think they are enjoying their new home and nice roost bar with a window to look out!!!
Oh, and one of the hens used the nesting box! Woohoo!
Next up, installing the run hardware cloth and building the man doors.
BUILD Phase 9 - Run Hardware Cloth & Man Doors
There is light at the end of the tunnel! I'm starting to see a glimpse of it!
The walls of the run will have 1/2" hardware cloth (HWC) for airflow and also critter control. The size I ended up buying was 48"x100'. I installed it vertically in 4' sections. The hardware cloth is screwed on with washer screws then I put trim over top (held in with screws) of the seams where they joined together durably.
The hardest part was rolling out the hardware cloth and getting it to stay flat without kicking back up and stabbing me. I do have some battle wounds from this part of the project!
After installing the hardware cloth, I sanded and painted the man doors for the run. I remember the day was extremely hot (in the 90's) and the doors were completely dry with two coats of paint within hours! To install the hardware cloth, I used clamps to hold it onto the door and screwed it in with washer screws.
I did have an accident, then ended up with an emergency visit to the eye doctor.
When I was installing the hardware cloth, I needed to cut the width to fit properly. Well, when I reached the end, the tension was so tight it was like a spring and rolled right up to my face and hit me in the eye. My eye was watering, but didn't think much of it and kept on working. The next day, my eye was so red and sore that I called the doctors. Thankfully my cornea wasn’t damaged, but it was close. The hardware cloth tore through the Conjunctiva (thin layer of tissue that covers the front of your eye), but DIDN'T appear to have punctured my Sclera (the white of your eye). My eye pressure was good which is positive. 
Lesson learned. ALWAYS use safety glasses with the hardware cloth. I will be the first to admit, that I usually don't wear safety classes when doing things I should. After that incident, it was a wake up call and now I do! I could have lost my eye sight.
The next step was to cut out a chicken door. I measured my tallest chicken (the Rooster, who is named, Joey...a FRIENDS reference from my wife) to see what size I would need to cut.The main thing is to have it big enough for the biggest chicken to fit through. You don't want to have the chickens hit their feathers on the door and eventually rub or leave marks on them.
After several measurements and marking the door, I decided as of right now to not cut out a chicken door. Instead, I cut the inside man door from the coop to run and let them use that for now. Since it's summer time, I don't have to worry about weather and it can stay like this until I figure out my plan.
AND....more night time work!
Door is drying after being painted.
AND...hardware cloth install time!
Double doors for gable end. These are the doors on the end for clean out. Painted and drying.
Chicken door measurements in the coop wall.
Measuring Joey...He's looking and thinking, "What the hell is happening!"
Decided to hold off on the chicken door and cut out the man door from the coop to run.
The walls of the run will have 1/2" hardware cloth (HWC) for airflow and also critter control. The size I ended up buying was 48"x100'. I installed it vertically in 4' sections. The hardware cloth is screwed on with washer screws then I put trim over top (held in with screws) of the seams where they joined together durably.
The hardest part was rolling out the hardware cloth and getting it to stay flat without kicking back up and stabbing me. I do have some battle wounds from this part of the project!
After installing the hardware cloth, I sanded and painted the man doors for the run. I remember the day was extremely hot (in the 90's) and the doors were completely dry with two coats of paint within hours! To install the hardware cloth, I used clamps to hold it onto the door and screwed it in with washer screws.
I did have an accident, then ended up with an emergency visit to the eye doctor.
When I was installing the hardware cloth, I needed to cut the width to fit properly. Well, when I reached the end, the tension was so tight it was like a spring and rolled right up to my face and hit me in the eye. My eye was watering, but didn't think much of it and kept on working. The next day, my eye was so red and sore that I called the doctors. Thankfully my cornea wasn’t damaged, but it was close. The hardware cloth tore through the Conjunctiva (thin layer of tissue that covers the front of your eye), but DIDN'T appear to have punctured my Sclera (the white of your eye). My eye pressure was good which is positive. Lesson learned. ALWAYS use safety glasses with the hardware cloth. I will be the first to admit, that I usually don't wear safety classes when doing things I should. After that incident, it was a wake up call and now I do! I could have lost my eye sight.
The next step was to cut out a chicken door. I measured my tallest chicken (the Rooster, who is named, Joey...a FRIENDS reference from my wife) to see what size I would need to cut.The main thing is to have it big enough for the biggest chicken to fit through. You don't want to have the chickens hit their feathers on the door and eventually rub or leave marks on them.
After several measurements and marking the door, I decided as of right now to not cut out a chicken door. Instead, I cut the inside man door from the coop to run and let them use that for now. Since it's summer time, I don't have to worry about weather and it can stay like this until I figure out my plan.
AND....more night time work!
Door is drying after being painted.
AND...hardware cloth install time!
Double doors for gable end. These are the doors on the end for clean out. Painted and drying.
Chicken door measurements in the coop wall.
Measuring Joey...He's looking and thinking, "What the hell is happening!"
Decided to hold off on the chicken door and cut out the man door from the coop to run.
Coop & Run Finished!
The light at the end of the tunnel came. Huge relief to finish the coop & run. The chickens now have a nice home!
While the project is compete, there are still minor updates I need to make (or have already made since posting this article). But the chickens have a fully functional home!
In the pictures below, you will see I had gutters installed to collect rain water and use as drinking water. I still need to setup the return, but it's a work in progress.
She's checking out the new perch!
Ah, yes, I like this spot! haha
Added the finished exterior for the end gable.
Gutter install!
Joey flapping his wings.
I have to say, I love the way my rooster look. He's a beauty!
While the project is compete, there are still minor updates I need to make (or have already made since posting this article). But the chickens have a fully functional home!
In the pictures below, you will see I had gutters installed to collect rain water and use as drinking water. I still need to setup the return, but it's a work in progress.
She's checking out the new perch!
Ah, yes, I like this spot! haha
Added the finished exterior for the end gable.
Gutter install!
Joey flapping his wings.
I have to say, I love the way my rooster look. He's a beauty!
Updates & Enhancements
Welcome to the Updates & Enhancements section! I will utilize this page to post all the updates and enhancements to my coop and run.
Project: Brooding House (multiple additions) **No longer use in the coop. This was a temporary solution while Cruella was in the mood to brood!**
Timeframe(s): Aug-Oct 2022
Description: Around the beginning of August our hen, Cruella, decided she wanted to be a momma! I wasn't ready to get into brooding, but figured, no time is better than now especially since she would do it naturally. I kept finding her in the nesting boxes. Sometimes she would be in the same one for a couple days and others she would "forget" which box she was in and would switch boxes. After a couple of days with her switching, I had no idea what eggs where which so I threw them away (well, gave them to the hens to eat). I put a little sharpie dot on the eggs she would sit on so I knew which ones were hers. In the meantime, I knew it was wrong to keep her in the nesting box as it could create bad habits. In a pinch, I built a separate brooder box for her. It worked okay, but she kept making a mess by knocking over her water and food. I took expanded onto the brooder as a temporary solution until I could build something (that I thought would be) more permanent in the coop. I forgot to take a picture of this addition, but it's okay. After the chicks were born, I realized I needed a bigger setup that could accommodate the chicks on one side and brooding on the other side (as I want to keep brooding now!). So, I pulled everything out and built a new setup. The new setup is working well for the most part, however, some of the hens are sleeping on the poop board which then poop falls into the new area. This spring, I will completely pull it out and think of a new design.
Curella ending up hatching 3 chicks. The fourth chick was unfortunately not strong enough to break out of the shell.
On October 8th, two baby chicks were killed by our recently new barn cat. I had temporary fencing around the coop and run to let my flock outside. I guess this time, two of the baby chicks wandered too close to the end of the fence and the cat got it. This was a big lesson learned for me and after that day, I put in the permanent fencing!
Here are some pictures of this update.
First iteration of brooder for Curella
There is no wall on the right side since it will be up against the coop wall.
Curella's first night sitting on the eggs in her new brooder!
First baby chick hatched! Sept 12
Momma and the baby.
I never found the second shell, but this is the shell from baby chick 3! Sept 13
In this picture, you can see the first extension to the brooder I made. I just added some T1-11 siding to the front.
Momma and her babies!
Fourth chick trying to hatch.
The rest of the flock is patiently waiting!
Unfortunately, baby chick 4 wasn't strong enough to break out of the shell.
Cleaned out the coop to make room to build the new brooder and chick living quarters. The babies are checking out the space before I begin.
Ms. Nosy hen is inspecting my work! I made the frame out of 2x4's then put up T1-11 siding for the walls.
Momma in her new space keeping the baby chicks warm!
I added two top doors on under the roost bar. This gives me access to the feeder and water. This side of the area is for after the chicks are hatched.
This side, under the nesting box, is the brooding area. If I have another hen that is broody, I will put her in here so she can hatch baby chicks while having plenty of space for food and water. This area has a door that swings open in the front, and a food/water access area from the top
Momma and the one baby chick left after the cat killed the other two
It might be hard to tell, but the baby chick is sleep under momma (on her left side)!
Project: Gravity Feeder
Timeframe(s): September 2022
Description: I was looking for a more efficient and effective way to feed the chickens, especially during the cold winter months (without having to come outside every day to make sure they have food). My "Chick-Nic-Table" (that my wife bought for them) is awesome. The only downside, is it holds very little feed. I looked around online for all kinds of feeders. I wasn't a big fan of the already made ones. I kept gravitating towards the DIY feeds. Now, for those who have searched online for "DIY Chicken Feeders", you know there are hundreds (might have exaggerated a little!), of different ones folks have made over the years. The difficult part was finding one that would fit my (and the chicken's) needs, while working in the space I have for it.
While looking online, I happen to come across a fellow BYC member, @Gailens who posted an Article on their awesome chicken coop build with an amazing gravity feeder! I reached out to @Gailens to compliment him on his awesome build and asked if he would provide more information/dimensions on how to build the feeder as I wanted to build one for my chickens. He was kind enough to reply and answered all my questions! I was ecstatic!
I made some slight modifications to the size and to the front panel of the box to fit my needs. One thing I definitely wanted, was a way to see when I start to run low on chicken feed. Instead of using full wood on the front, I added some braces, and installed a plexiglass window. It's very sturdy and has no issues holding the weight of the feed. In total, the feed holds 200lbs of chicken feed (4x 50lb bags)! No moisture or mildew issues. I clean the feeder each time before adding another 200lbs, but removing the screws and using the shop vac. This is to make sure I have no stale food caught int he corners/cracks. Very simple and easy cleaning process.
Here are the pictures of the build!
I used left over plywood.
The sides of the feeder are roughly 54" in length.
The width of the feeder is 2'.
You can see I put braces along the insides of the feeder, across the top, front, and back (which cannot be seen. I should have taken a picture of it). I angled the board at the bottom to so when the feed flows down, it doesn't bunch of in the back.
I added around 1x1 along the top of the angled board to keep pieces of the feed from falling in the back.
AH, here is the brace in the back! I did take a picture!
I used two hinges on the top door to open and close. I cut it a little longer so it overlaps over top of the front board to provide coverage.
I added additional braces in the front for both the board and plexiglass.
Then, I painted it white!
For the front, I cut 6 holes (equally spaced apart - as best as I could) so multiple chickens can eat at once!
I started with a few screws in the plexiglass to see how it would hold. I know I would need more, but I wanted to find out if I needed additional bracing.
I ended up adding additional bracing for the plexiglass and used heavier duty screws. I pre-drilled all my holes first, this way I had less of a chance damaging the glass.
Here is 200lbs of chicken feed! It roughly lasts me three months before I have to clean and refill. I love it!
Project: Brooding House (multiple additions) **No longer use in the coop. This was a temporary solution while Cruella was in the mood to brood!**
Timeframe(s): Aug-Oct 2022
Description: Around the beginning of August our hen, Cruella, decided she wanted to be a momma! I wasn't ready to get into brooding, but figured, no time is better than now especially since she would do it naturally. I kept finding her in the nesting boxes. Sometimes she would be in the same one for a couple days and others she would "forget" which box she was in and would switch boxes. After a couple of days with her switching, I had no idea what eggs where which so I threw them away (well, gave them to the hens to eat). I put a little sharpie dot on the eggs she would sit on so I knew which ones were hers. In the meantime, I knew it was wrong to keep her in the nesting box as it could create bad habits. In a pinch, I built a separate brooder box for her. It worked okay, but she kept making a mess by knocking over her water and food. I took expanded onto the brooder as a temporary solution until I could build something (that I thought would be) more permanent in the coop. I forgot to take a picture of this addition, but it's okay. After the chicks were born, I realized I needed a bigger setup that could accommodate the chicks on one side and brooding on the other side (as I want to keep brooding now!). So, I pulled everything out and built a new setup. The new setup is working well for the most part, however, some of the hens are sleeping on the poop board which then poop falls into the new area. This spring, I will completely pull it out and think of a new design.
Curella ending up hatching 3 chicks. The fourth chick was unfortunately not strong enough to break out of the shell.
On October 8th, two baby chicks were killed by our recently new barn cat. I had temporary fencing around the coop and run to let my flock outside. I guess this time, two of the baby chicks wandered too close to the end of the fence and the cat got it. This was a big lesson learned for me and after that day, I put in the permanent fencing!- Chick 1 hatched September 12
- Chick 2 hatched September 12
- Chick 3 hatched September 13
Here are some pictures of this update.
First iteration of brooder for Curella
There is no wall on the right side since it will be up against the coop wall.
Curella's first night sitting on the eggs in her new brooder!
First baby chick hatched! Sept 12
Momma and the baby.
I never found the second shell, but this is the shell from baby chick 3! Sept 13
In this picture, you can see the first extension to the brooder I made. I just added some T1-11 siding to the front.
Momma and her babies!
Fourth chick trying to hatch.
The rest of the flock is patiently waiting!
Unfortunately, baby chick 4 wasn't strong enough to break out of the shell.
Cleaned out the coop to make room to build the new brooder and chick living quarters. The babies are checking out the space before I begin.
Ms. Nosy hen is inspecting my work! I made the frame out of 2x4's then put up T1-11 siding for the walls.
Momma in her new space keeping the baby chicks warm!
I added two top doors on under the roost bar. This gives me access to the feeder and water. This side of the area is for after the chicks are hatched.
This side, under the nesting box, is the brooding area. If I have another hen that is broody, I will put her in here so she can hatch baby chicks while having plenty of space for food and water. This area has a door that swings open in the front, and a food/water access area from the top
Momma and the one baby chick left after the cat killed the other two
It might be hard to tell, but the baby chick is sleep under momma (on her left side)!
Project: Gravity Feeder
Timeframe(s): September 2022
Description: I was looking for a more efficient and effective way to feed the chickens, especially during the cold winter months (without having to come outside every day to make sure they have food). My "Chick-Nic-Table" (that my wife bought for them) is awesome. The only downside, is it holds very little feed. I looked around online for all kinds of feeders. I wasn't a big fan of the already made ones. I kept gravitating towards the DIY feeds. Now, for those who have searched online for "DIY Chicken Feeders", you know there are hundreds (might have exaggerated a little!), of different ones folks have made over the years. The difficult part was finding one that would fit my (and the chicken's) needs, while working in the space I have for it.
While looking online, I happen to come across a fellow BYC member, @Gailens who posted an Article on their awesome chicken coop build with an amazing gravity feeder! I reached out to @Gailens to compliment him on his awesome build and asked if he would provide more information/dimensions on how to build the feeder as I wanted to build one for my chickens. He was kind enough to reply and answered all my questions! I was ecstatic!
I made some slight modifications to the size and to the front panel of the box to fit my needs. One thing I definitely wanted, was a way to see when I start to run low on chicken feed. Instead of using full wood on the front, I added some braces, and installed a plexiglass window. It's very sturdy and has no issues holding the weight of the feed. In total, the feed holds 200lbs of chicken feed (4x 50lb bags)! No moisture or mildew issues. I clean the feeder each time before adding another 200lbs, but removing the screws and using the shop vac. This is to make sure I have no stale food caught int he corners/cracks. Very simple and easy cleaning process.
Here are the pictures of the build!
I used left over plywood.
The sides of the feeder are roughly 54" in length.
The width of the feeder is 2'.
You can see I put braces along the insides of the feeder, across the top, front, and back (which cannot be seen. I should have taken a picture of it). I angled the board at the bottom to so when the feed flows down, it doesn't bunch of in the back.
I added around 1x1 along the top of the angled board to keep pieces of the feed from falling in the back.
AH, here is the brace in the back! I did take a picture!
I used two hinges on the top door to open and close. I cut it a little longer so it overlaps over top of the front board to provide coverage.
I added additional braces in the front for both the board and plexiglass.
Then, I painted it white!
For the front, I cut 6 holes (equally spaced apart - as best as I could) so multiple chickens can eat at once!
I started with a few screws in the plexiglass to see how it would hold. I know I would need more, but I wanted to find out if I needed additional bracing.
I ended up adding additional bracing for the plexiglass and used heavier duty screws. I pre-drilled all my holes first, this way I had less of a chance damaging the glass.
Here is 200lbs of chicken feed! It roughly lasts me three months before I have to clean and refill. I love it!
