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PouleChick

Crowing
7 Years
Apr 6, 2016
2,159
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SW France
:frow:frowI thought it might be nice to have a European thread to share our experiences and support each other when needed. I also like the idea of somewhere to ask about meds / products that we have access to that are different to the US and UK. I'm guessing even hatching eggs would possibly be doable within Europe!

@Shadrach
@Cragg Klefor
@Pokka
@Henrik Petersson
@Debby in france
I'll add tags as I spot people - please do the same.

Edited to add product information. Please tag me if you post information from your country so that this list can stay edited and up to date - thank you.:

SPAIN

I'll make a start then.
What I can get here for Coccidia is Coccivex.
I know they distribute to France, Portugal and Spain.
Vasaline is available here but usually at chemists.
Matacam is the analgesic the vets use here. A further advantage is it's an anti inflammatory.
Stockholm Hoof Tar or Pine Tar is used a lot here for wounds.
Most anti biotics are available here and afaik in Portugal and Italy, not sure about France.
If and when others contribute with drug names they can get perhaps we could make a list with the companies web site and/or where to buy.

I have to check, but mine is called Flubenol. I have a big can of it and I believe it is mainly for pigs in a powder form, but safe for chickens.

That's what i can get here but as you mention, it's hard to get small amounts. I have a 5kg box.

I guess I got lucky with my 600gr package. :eek:

34884850ph.jpg


In Germany, it is hard to get anything medication wise without going to the apothecary or vet. Even dewormer for cats/dogs is officially only available at the vet or with a prescription. There are some online stores, but those are often in the Netherlands and ship to Germany.

Here is my list of advice for Germany. If anyone would like to add anything, feel free.

First of all, these are all from my personal experiece, I cannot guarantee the accuracy 100% and the list is not complete. ;)

Legal

Chickens must be registered with your “Veterinäramt”. For us it was free. They will give you a registration number and ask how many (approximately, since chicken math is complicated) chickens you have.

“Tierseuchenkasse”: This is a fund that will help in cases of epidemics, disposal of cadavers, etc. It is mainly meant for large livestock or industrial chicken keeping. These are organized by state and dues are quite low if you are keeping a small flock. Maybe couple of cents per chicken and a minimum due of €10 per year.

The “Bauamt” will let you know if you are allowed to keep chickens where you live. In general, if you live in a village where livestock is typical, you should be allowed to keep chickens. In mixed (industrial and residential) areas, it should also be ok. If it is a residential only area with mainly new developments, it could be prohibited. To be sure, check with your “Bauamt”.

Chickens MUST be vaccinated against Newcastle's Disease. Most “Geflügelzuchtvereine” (local poultry associations) will offer the 3-monthly vaccination per drinking water. They will set a certain day/time to pick it up. The vaccination must be drunken within 2 hours of when they mix it, so you must plan accordingly.

Another option is to go through your vet and get shots. This is a vaccination that is good for a year.

Getting the shots was expensive for me the first year, since I was alone bought the whole pack (€60). My vet had just opened her practice and I was her first chicken keeper. She also does horses, so in time she found more chicken keepers and now I only pay a couple of Euros per chicken. The drinking water vaccination should also be very cheap through the associations, since costs are shared.

Finding a veterinarian that is chicken savvy is not easy. If you do your research, you might be able to help them along. If you find one that knows chickens, count yourself very lucky. My vet is willing to treat my chickens and research treatment and medication. She is also open to my suggestions and I am very grateful to have her.


Medical


Antiobiotics:

Baytril

Baycox

Tylan/Tylosin/Tylosucit (no waiting period for eggs)

Pain Reliever/Anti-Inflammatory:

Metacam

Aspirin (5-10mg/kg)


Vaccination for chicks coccidia:

Paracox

Feed “with cocc” can be purchased for chicks. Make sure this is the ONLY thing that they get.


Worms:

Flubenol: I have a powder, but I have also heard of people receiving the paste for cats.

Concurat: DO NOT let your vet give you this. Unfortunately, people are still receiving Concurat, even though it is not allowed for laying birds. It supposedly builds up in the ovaries and can be passed on to humans where it will build up in female ovaries.


Wound Treatment:


Blauspray (make sure you get the type for animal treatment and not a surface disinfectant)

Bepanthen cream

Propolis Cream

Betaisodona


Trichomoniasis (inofficial):

Spartrix (available for pigeons)

Metronidazole


Homeopathic:

Euphrasia: These are eye drops which I use for our chickens or cats when eyes are irritated or lightly infected

Traumeel: Available as an ointment or pills, Traumeel treats sprains and bruises

Viruvetsan: Boosts the immune system of poultry against respiratory and cardiovascular issues. Drops for the drinking water.

Verminex: Drops against fleas/mites on a basis of coconut oil. Also for dogs and cats.

Onions and Garlic: I like to give my hens with respiratory issues/colds fresh cut up onions and garlic. You can clearly tell that hens with the most problems will gladly eat it.

Dosto-Ropa Oregano Oil 12%: 1 ml/3l water (please check directions before use). Oregano oil supports the respiratory tract and the intestinal tract against parasites.

Moro'sche Karottensuppe (Moro Carrot soup):

From Wikipedia:



Active Charcoal: Diarrhea


Humane Medicine:

Gelomyrtol:

Gelomyrtol is a homeopathic decongestant capsule for human use that contains natural oils. I give 2 capsules immediately when eyes are starting to swell, indicating respiratory issues. Then 1 in the evening on the roost.

Anti-Fungal:

Fungizid Ratiopharm: available as cream and spray

Nystatin

Syringes: I purchased a large pack of 100 here: https://www.sanicare.de/product?art...eisvergleich&etcc_par=billiger&et_date=160201 They are cheap in bulk and very nice to have on hand for emergencies.


Ballistol:

Ballistol is a gun oil that has a wide range of uses. Also available as Ballistol Animal, but the regular type will do.

Feather mites: spray on the cloaca

Scaly leg mites: spray on legs


Supplements:

Bierhefe (Brewer's Yeast): protein, vitamins, minerals, amino acids

Brennessel (Stinging nettle): Vitamins and minerals

Mohn (Poppy seeds): prevents diarrhea in chicks

Traubenzucker (Dextrose/Glucose): available for humans, used for animals that need a fast energy boost, often mixed with egg yolk


The coop:

For painting the inside of the coop, you can get Weisskalkhydrat or Kalkanstrich (readily mixed and available at hardware stores). This is comparable to a lime wash, which is antimicrobial and prevents mold.

Kieselgur: this is diatomaceous earth in a powder form, used for all the cracks and gaps to prevent mites. I also add it to the bathing areas or sometimes directly on the birds. Be careful, as it irritates the eyes and respiratory organs.

Mikrogur: Kieselgur that is water solubale and can be sprayed on

Hardware cloth:

For me, the cheapest source was Siepmann

They offered the same product at half the price of our hardware store. They also carry other agricultural items.

Automatic Coop Doors:

Axt
Jost

Poultry Specific Supplements:


Rhönfried Hennengold: For better shells and moult support

Rhönfried ADEC: vitamin supplement

Pelin Essenz: colds and respiratory issues


There are plenty more supplements. SL-Chickery is a nice site to visit.

If I think of anything else, I will edit the list. :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would just like to mention on behalf of Her Majesties Government :rolleyes: (chance would be a fine thing) that the UK, despite what one might have read on the news, is still a part of Europe and even if the present incumbents of afore mentioned government manage to remove their fingers from their rear ends and stop living in a public school orientated dream world in time to stop the slow motion train crash film called Brexit the end result, whatever it is, will not stop me thinking of myself as European.:rant
 
Went to Irish Society of Poultry Fanciers' show this morning. It was great! Our timing was out though, we got there and they were still offloading and sorting out birds, so we didn't get to see everyone, before the judges moved in. We waited nearly 3 hours before having to leave, so didn't get to see who won. But I did manage to get a few quick pics.
 

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This morning when I went to the chickens.. all my birds in the rooster pen had been stolen. I called the police... the thieves hat cut a hole in the chainlink fence and then just took them. It's not locked just closed. I doubt that I will see them again or that they will find the person responsible for this. I did notice a black Mercedes lurking in front of the club house... he drove off very slowly and even backed up once... I didn't see the license plate. But I had a bad felling then. I am so mad, sad and everything in between!
 
I am indeed in Ireland! Thanks for the tag so I can follow along as I am a pure newbie who doesn't even have her first clucker yet though I did just get my official flock number this week :ya. Moved here last June from Illinois, USA and have been busy learning to live with metric :lau but the weather is a dream compared to the extremes I had back in Chicago. Just this week I finally collected most of the building supplies for my coop and run and hope to break ground once my sister visiting from the states heads back on Thursday. My current plan is to start with 6-8 POL pullets and a rooster. I am saving chick rearing for next year when I feel a bit more confident. Breeds....well that is TBD based on what is available when my coop is ready but I would love to find some pure bred ones as the ones sold at the local market all seem to be Rhode Island Red mixes.

I have nothing to offer the group as of yet but will be more than happy to add what I do find as available products as I come across them in my journey.
 
Here is my list of advice for Germany. If anyone would like to add anything, feel free.

First of all, these are all from my personal experiece, I cannot guarantee the accuracy 100% and the list is not complete. ;)

Legal

Chickens must be registered with your “Veterinäramt”. For us it was free. They will give you a registration number and ask how many (approximately, since chicken math is complicated) chickens you have.

“Tierseuchenkasse”: This is a fund that will help in cases of epidemics, disposal of cadavers, etc. It is mainly meant for large livestock or industrial chicken keeping. These are organized by state and dues are quite low if you are keeping a small flock. Maybe couple of cents per chicken and a minimum due of €10 per year.

The “Bauamt” will let you know if you are allowed to keep chickens where you live. In general, if you live in a village where livestock is typical, you should be allowed to keep chickens. In mixed (industrial and residential) areas, it should also be ok. If it is a residential only area with mainly new developments, it could be prohibited. To be sure, check with your “Bauamt”.

Chickens MUST be vaccinated against Newcastle's Disease. Most “Geflügelzuchtvereine” (local poultry associations) will offer the 3-monthly vaccination per drinking water. They will set a certain day/time to pick it up. The vaccination must be drunken within 2 hours of when they mix it, so you must plan accordingly.

Another option is to go through your vet and get shots. This is a vaccination that is good for a year.

Getting the shots was expensive for me the first year, since I was alone bought the whole pack (€60). My vet had just opened her practice and I was her first chicken keeper. She also does horses, so in time she found more chicken keepers and now I only pay a couple of Euros per chicken. The drinking water vaccination should also be very cheap through the associations, since costs are shared.

Finding a veterinarian that is chicken savvy is not easy. If you do your research, you might be able to help them along. If you find one that knows chickens, count yourself very lucky. My vet is willing to treat my chickens and research treatment and medication. She is also open to my suggestions and I am very grateful to have her.


Medical


Antiobiotics:

Baytril

Baycox

Tylan/Tylosin/Tylosucit (no waiting period for eggs)

Pain Reliever/Anti-Inflammatory:

Metacam

Aspirin (5-10mg/kg)


Vaccination for chicks coccidia:

Paracox

Feed “with cocc” can be purchased for chicks. Make sure this is the ONLY thing that they get.


Worms:

Flubenol: I have a powder, but I have also heard of people receiving the paste for cats.

Concurat: DO NOT let your vet give you this. Unfortunately, people are still receiving Concurat, even though it is not allowed for laying birds. It supposedly builds up in the ovaries and can be passed on to humans where it will build up in female ovaries.


Wound Treatment:


Blauspray (make sure you get the type for animal treatment and not a surface disinfectant)

Bepanthen cream

Propolis Cream

Betaisodona


Trichomoniasis (inofficial):

Spartrix (available for pigeons)

Metronidazole


Homeopathic:

Euphrasia: These are eye drops which I use for our chickens or cats when eyes are irritated or lightly infected

Traumeel: Available as an ointment or pills, Traumeel treats sprains and bruises

Viruvetsan: Boosts the immune system of poultry against respiratory and cardiovascular issues. Drops for the drinking water.

Verminex: Drops against fleas/mites on a basis of coconut oil. Also for dogs and cats.

Onions and Garlic: I like to give my hens with respiratory issues/colds fresh cut up onions and garlic. You can clearly tell that hens with the most problems will gladly eat it.

Dosto-Ropa Oregano Oil 12%: 1 ml/3l water (please check directions before use). Oregano oil supports the respiratory tract and the intestinal tract against parasites.

Moro'sche Karottensuppe (Moro Carrot soup):

From Wikipedia:

In 1908, diarrhea killed many babies in Germany. Professor Moro, at that time the head of a children hospital in Heidelberg, found out by experiment that a simple carrot soup decreased the death rate of babies suffering from diarrhea by nearly 50% .[citation needed] The soup was made by pureeing 500 grams of peeled carrots in a blender, adding 1 liter of water, and then cooking it for one hour. After cooking, 3 grams of salt were added, along with enough water until the soup pot contained a total of 1 liter of liquid.

A German study published in 2002[1][2] outlines that acidic oligosaccharides formed in aqueous extracts from carrots (carrot soup) may lead to less adherence of bacterial agents to the mucosal wall of the bowel, thus being a more effective treatment for acute gastrointestinal infections of children than glucose-electrolyte-solution oral rehydration.

In 2009, experiments showed that Professor Moro's Carrot Soup can treat diarrhea caused by antibiotic-resistant bacteria.[3]

Active Charcoal: Diarrhea


Humane Medicine:

Gelomyrtol:

Gelomyrtol is a homeopathic decongestant capsule for human use that contains natural oils. I give 2 capsules immediately when eyes are starting to swell, indicating respiratory issues. Then 1 in the evening on the roost.

Anti-Fungal:

Fungizid Ratiopharm: available as cream and spray

Nystatin

Syringes: I purchased a large pack of 100 here: https://www.sanicare.de/product?art...eisvergleich&etcc_par=billiger&et_date=160201 They are cheap in bulk and very nice to have on hand for emergencies.


Ballistol:

Ballistol is a gun oil that has a wide range of uses. Also available as Ballistol Animal, but the regular type will do.

Feather mites: spray on the cloaca

Scaly leg mites: spray on legs


Supplements:

Bierhefe (Brewer's Yeast): protein, vitamins, minerals, amino acids

Brennessel (Stinging nettle): Vitamins and minerals

Mohn (Poppy seeds): prevents diarrhea in chicks

Traubenzucker (Dextrose/Glucose): available for humans, used for animals that need a fast energy boost, often mixed with egg yolk


The coop:

For painting the inside of the coop, you can get Weisskalkhydrat or Kalkanstrich (readily mixed and available at hardware stores). This is comparable to a lime wash, which is antimicrobial and prevents mold.

Kieselgur: this is diatomaceous earth in a powder form, used for all the cracks and gaps to prevent mites. I also add it to the bathing areas or sometimes directly on the birds. Be careful, as it irritates the eyes and respiratory organs.

Mikrogur: Kieselgur that is water solubale and can be sprayed on

Hardware cloth:

For me, the cheapest source was Siepmann

They offered the same product at half the price of our hardware store. They also carry other agricultural items.

Automatic Coop Doors:

Axt
Jost



Poultry Specific Supplements:


Rhönfried Hennengold: For better shells and moult support

Rhönfried ADEC: vitamin supplement

Pelin Essenz: colds and respiratory issues


There are plenty more supplements. SL-Chickery is a nice site to visit.

If I think of anything else, I will edit the list. :)
 
Thank you all for the replies! I will definitely try if they keep going. As you already said, I can always put the chicks with the others in the brooder. I already given eggs which were on day 18 to a broody, but it was with an older broody, she did awesome and kept the chicks for 5 weeks. Anyways I learned a lot on this site and I read a lot on how to give hatched chicks to broodies, too.
I have two Borotto incubators, with this hatch I'm testing for the first time one of them. I bought the first one one year ago and I like a lot how they work and the egg trays. I don't like so much the last year's humidifier (it does its work correctly though), but they improved it this year and now it's much better.
My chickens can roam freely in the whole yard, which is fenced. They have lots of bushes where to scratch the dry leaves and rest during the hot days, then there is the lawn with some trees, so they can eat the fruits that fall, too.
The hatch ended (actually a few days ago but I've been a bit busy these days, sorry:oops:).
I usually hatch only purebeeds, but this time I wanted to try few mixes, just for fun.
We got 2 Brahma x Red Sexlink, 1 bantam cochin (I'm guessing it's a mix between millefleur and black, it's black but not as black as the purebred chicks I've seen) and 3 silver chinese quails.
Unfortunately both the broodies refused the chicks, the bantam cochin actually broke her broodiness on her own few hours later discovering the chick.
Today here it's raining and thundering, some thunders were so strong that they scared the chicks, poor little ones.
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