The Honey Factory

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duluthralphie

Dux eradication specialist
8 Years
Jul 11, 2014
40,470
114,278
1,577
Orrock township, Minnesota
I have just started my very own honey factory.

I was going to ha e two hives but decided to just buy one batch of bees, in case I kill them instead of two.

I can use advice from anyone and everyone with experience.

I do not plan to over winter my bees. I will use them as protein for the birds when their work is done.
My bee box:


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I have it level side to side and and 1/8th bubble high on the back side.

Here are my new workers;
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this was right after I moved them into their new home.

I was out and visited them a little bit ago. There were 50-100 bees crawling on the box above the door. I hope that’s normal.

I have Saskartraz bees. I think that’s because the Sasquatch developed them.

@R2elk might know more. As I said these are my first ones.

I know they were friendly and would purr when they sat on my arm, so I could pet them.


It was a tad intimidating to have a box of bees clumped together and buzzing like mad in my hands. I was not sure how getting them into the box would go.

It was not bad, I took the queen out first. She assured me we would get along fine and she had no hostility towards me. Hopefully, she pays her rent.

Her box had a wood plug and not a candy plug in it. I popped the plug out and put a marshmallow into the hole.

I hung her box between two supers, then dumped the rest into the box and replaced the supers I had removed to make space to dump them.

All of this was accomplished without a sting!

I am a tad nervous they won’t like my box and leave tonight.

I gave them a pollen patty and a jug of sugar water inside the box and I have a chick waterer set up outside the hive for them.

They have been here 4 hours. I will check on them in an hour or so.
 
I hung her box between two supers, then dumped the rest into the box and replaced the supers I had removed to make space to dump them.
I am sure that you mean that you placed the queen cage between two frames. Supers are the boxes of frames that you will place on top of the hive.

I would recommend that for the time being you use the small exit hole in the entrance reducer rather than the large hole you have shown in your photo.

I am assuming that you have your feeder inside of the hive bodies since I don't see one on the outside and it is essential that you feed the bees until the weather is warm enough and there are enough blooms to sustain the bees.

The sister site BackyardHerds has a dedicated Bees & Beekeeping forum.
 
About the hole. I had it set for the small entrance, but he said to turn it to the larger one because there are no other bees around.

He said if I had another hive or if there was one close I would use the small door so they could defend it easier.

Does that make sense?

Does the block ever get removed completely?
I use the small hole to start because it also slows down their exit if they decide to leave and it helps keep down the amount of cold air that can get into the hive. Once the brood starts hatching (population explosion), I switch to the larger entrance. When the hive is well established and the weather warms up, I remove the entrance reducer and replace it with a mouse guard entrance.
 
I train beekeepers, I enjoy long walks on the beach and getting my butt kicked by bees. Like yesterday, about 4 dozen stings from boxing the largest swarm I can remember (yes I do have a bad memory, but it was massive. Swarms normally have no budget for security)

Overwintering bees is not difficult if you treat them well from the start. As individuals they are cold blooded, but the colony is warm blooded. Treat it that way and keep it warm. There are very many ways to do this, MANY. You keep yourself warm in winter, why not work out a way to share the warmth.

Chickens won't eat bees. Unless they're battered and deep-fried. They don't like bees. They remember.

Small entrances are good at any time unless there are a lot of bees or it gets hot, or there is direct sun on the beehive. Beehives are best in shade in hot summers, and in the sun in cold weather. Temperature of the day, plus how much work is going on in the hive, plus predators, plus robber bees all come into account when choosing the size of an entrance. For new hives that are being established during cool weather, an entrance you can hardly stick half a dozen straws in at one time is ok.

Don't kill drones, there's no need. The workers will do that themselves when it needs to be done. Bees are smarter than people and people shouldn't tell them stupid things like that, bees are the experts and they may well decide to re-queen immediately, and they'd need drones for that, the drones help keep the hive warm and improve morale.

should respect the bees, they've been here hundreds of millions of years and haven't destroyed the only planet they have to live on, so they smart.
 
I won’t be stealing honey, I will be collecting rent. When I explain that to them they will understand.

I just got off the phone with my tutor, he asked how it went. I told him they got a little excited when I pulled the Queen cage out.

He said almost the same thing you did. He said wait until you start taking the honey and you have 60,000 upset bees.
In my experience, bees do not understand the concept of paying rent. They do understand the concept of stealing as some varieties are more inclined to steal from other hives than they are inclined to make their own honey.

Another personal experience indicates that at least some kinds of Russian bees hold grudges. I had one particular Russian bee that took offense to me opening up the hive. It waited for me on the deck for 3 days in a row. On the third day it accomplished its mission with a suicide run and stung me.
 

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