Double fencing for run?

[Sally PB]

I put up 2x3 welded wire around my entire run. Then, on the outside of that, I have hardware cloth, to 4 feet.

Here's why I did it this way: The 2x3 was stiffer and went up to the roof. It was stronger and easier to handle. It gave me something to attach the hardware cloth to.

I can reach my fingers far enough through a 2x3 opening to grab the end of a zip tie. Doing the hardware cloth first would have meant getting someone else to be on the other side, and I was doing this myself.

 

[Shadrach]

You’d said the hardware cloth went on the “hostile” or outside of the other fencing (welded wire), so that’s why I was asking about a chick getting through. If the HC goes on the outside, the question doesn’t apply, of course. I guess what I’m looking for here is the reasoning behind which fencing goes on the outside.

For predators apart from humans the small hole size of hardware cloth helps prevent the predator from being able to pull at the fence because they can't get their teeth or claw far enough through the holes in the hardware cloth to gain sufficient purchase. This leaves pushing at the fence. If the hardware cloth is supported by heavy gauge welded wire then the welded wire prevents the predator from pushing through the fence.

 

[aart]

Either inside or outside might work.
My run is 2x4' welded wire and I put HC on the inside 2' up just to keep chicks from getting out, and it helps hold the run bedding inside too.

 

[Appalachickens]

Oh my bad. I personally had no idea it existed.

 

[Appalachickens]

For predators apart from humans the small hole size of hardware cloth helps prevent the predator from being able to pull at the fence because they can't get their teeth or claw far enough through the holes in the hardware cloth to gain sufficient purchase. This leaves pushing at the fence. If the hardware cloth is supported by heavy gauge welded wire then the welded wire prevents the predator from pushing through the fence.

Ah, makes sense!

 

[perkolator]

Either side should technically work as long as the stiffer fence is structurally sound.
I chose the exterior HC over my 2x2 stiff fencing - this way I could add HC that was pre cut and bent with an L-shape for anti-dig skirting. If I did it on the interior, it would be tricky to slip the skirting under the fence.

 

[Appalachickens]

Either side should technically work as long as the stiffer fence is structurally sound.
I chose the exterior HC over my 2x2 stiff fencing - this way I could add HC that was pre cut and bent with an L-shape for anti-dig skirting. If I did it on the interior, it would be tricky to slip the skirting under the fence.

A complicating factor is that the coop/run is on the little strip of land where our electric lines are buried, so no digging. We are using 4x4s on cement pier blocks with 2x4s connecting at the bottom and top and 1x4s in the middle. All fencing will attach to that, with an added 18” HC skirt. I plan to grow things through the skirt - mostly wild strawberries. The run will be anchored by the coop at one end and a 3- walled shelter at the other, and 2x4s across the run at each post to support the HC roof.

 

[Appalachickens]

Here's why I did it this way: The 2x3 was stiffer and went up to the roof. It was stronger and easier to handle. It gave me something to attach the hardware cloth to.

I can reach my fingers far enough through a 2x3 opening to grab the end of a zip tie. Doing the hardware cloth first would have meant getting someone else to be on the other side, and I was doing this myself.

That makes a lot of sense. I’m planning to use hog clips to attach the different fencing to each other and staples to attach it to the wood (with furring strips nailed over that to keep the coons from unattaching it).

 

[MapleLaurelFarms]

If it's properly supported, you really only need hardware cloth. We have a wood frame run like the photo that's attached to our coop and covered with HC on the outside. The HC is firmly attached to the wood framing.

We're in the mountains and level ground is non-existent, so the bottom plate sits above the ground, in some areas it's pretty high above. We just buried the hardware cloth about 2' into the ground. We have everything in the US that eats chickens here - coyote, dogs, bears, raccoon, mink/weasel, etc etc etc. So far nothing has even tried to get in.

 

[MapleLaurelFarms]

A complicating factor is that the coop/run is on the little strip of land where our electric lines are buried, so no digging. We are using 4x4s on cement pier blocks with 2x4s connecting at the bottom and top and 1x4s in the middle. All fencing will attach to that, with an added 18” HC skirt.

Sorry just saw this after I replied. If I'm imagining your plan correctly, this sounds really good and I still think all you need is hardware cloth. If it's a high roof with tall bays on each wall, just add blocking in the middle.

If you use typical fencing staples like u-nails, I don't think anything will be able to get those out of the wood. Something large like a bear might can press against the fence to push them out if your fencing is on the inside of the studs, but even then he'd likely give up before he made any headway.