First time hatching and raising button quail

Diveks

Songster
7 Years
Jul 14, 2017
417
447
211
Australia
Hello, im looking to raise some button quails as pets and im getting some quail eggs from random coloured pairs so colour guessing should be fun! I have several questions regarding the equipment i will be using. The eggs will be shipped today (freshly laid eggs today), and if all goes well in shipping they should arrive tomorrow. Looking to make a hatchalong thread once i worked out all the equipment i will be using.

For the incubator i will be using the rcom 10 pro. It has been with me for 7 years now and has hatched out parrot and chicken eggs beautifully. Hoping the bator will still be accurate for a few more years. Well the quail turner hole is a bit too big for button quail eggs but i can set up the turn angle for the quails (i did that with my tiny lovebird eggs with 100% hatch rate) would i need to do anything else to the turner?

For brooding the chicks, i hate hot scary ceramic heaters and heat lamps are, ive had one break, shatter, burn, so i don’t want to go through all that again. I use the brinsea 600 for my chicks. Are they a bit too tall for baby button quails though? I could take out the stands and make the plate 1 inch off the ground.

Brinsea ecoglow 600:
7BDF5824-C072-4FD4-ABF2-0218CFDEA1C7.jpeg


Rcom 10 turning tray:
1E8BB512-625E-48B1-AE46-7AC10CE5E332.jpeg
 
I don’t think any heat plate is suitable for buttons, I’ve used a heat plate for Coturnix with ok results, but the buttons are so small and frail, I think the floor they stand on won’t be warm enough, the food and water will be away from the heat and they can chill quickly if they leave the plate to eat and drink. it won’t warm areas of the brooder with a gradual tapering warmth, if they wander too far, there’s no warmth to lead them back, remember they’re super dumb, like really really stupid, they get lost easily, even in small spaces. Buttons are so sensitive, I use ceramic heat bulbs for mine, and I have excellent results.
 
I don’t think any heat plate is suitable for buttons, I’ve used a heat plate for Coturnix with ok results, but the buttons are so small and frail, I think the floor they stand on won’t be warm enough, the food and water will be away from the heat and they can chill quickly if they leave the plate to eat and drink. it won’t warm areas of the brooder with a gradual tapering warmth, if they wander too far, there’s no warmth to lead them back, remember they’re super dumb, like really really stupid, they get lost easily, even in small spaces. Buttons are so sensitive, I use ceramic heat bulbs for mine, and I have excellent results.
thank you! i will be using ceramic heat bulbs then! I had issues with my ceramic heat bulbs where they will emit smoke and weird burnt smell, is it normal or was mine faulty?

also, can you give me more info on the heating and setup you use for them, what watt heat emitter and how high they are from the ground. what percentage of the brooder gets heat.

one more thing, would chick feeder and waterers with marbles work for them? i have a feeling they are too tall for them. maybe start off with paper towel and maybe a jar lid with marbles for the water?

Also since they are so sensitive would baby bird brooders work or are there too little heat gradient for them? I usually use them for baby birds or sick chickens. This is the type i have:
1644987257156.png

sorry for so many questions, i know how fragile they are and i am very nervous.
 
They should have a warm and a cool end. I used the ceramic heat bulbs, and I have never had them emit smoke and burnt smell unless they had dust on them.
Thanks guess ill scrap that idea then. Ill be getting a new ceramic bulb. Would ceramic bulb or infrared light work better? Had issues when the ceramic bulb stopped working and i didn’t realize it.
 
Welcome to BYC, Diveks! This is such a friendly and supportive community. I am sure you will find the help you need, and friends besides. Welcome
:frow

from Eastern Massachusetts! To quote Sgt Schultz from Hogan's Heroes: I know NUZZING, I know NUZZING!
Thanks you! Ive been here for awhile but only started posting last year. I agree, very friendly and helpful community i just love it here! Glad i joined, i’ve learnt so much from here :D!
 
Thanks guess ill scrap that idea then. Ill be getting a new ceramic bulb. Would ceramic bulb or infrared light work better? Had issues when the ceramic bulb stopped working and i didn’t realize it.
I prefer the ceramic bulb. I use a thermometer so I know what the temperature is down by the chicks.
 
I have ceramic and red light bulbs, and I’ve had a brand new red one die overbite and almost kill the chicks, the ceramic ones seem to last forever.

I have a light stand that I bought at petsmart, it is adjustable height and hangs the light down into the brooder. They only had 1 wattage choice of ceramic, I don’t remember what watt it said. I hang it as low as it goes on the stand and I have the light hanging from a snap hook thing to give a couple extra inches because the buttons get cold (it’s like the rock climbing things). I’ve found that the chicks exhibit more bird like behavior with the ceramic light vs the red one. They seem to be running around test flying at like 1 day old, with the red light they seem to cluster near the light, and don’t run around as much until they’re older.

I use a jar lid for the water, but I put two small parakeet waterers in as well, and I put a small rock in the output channel so they can’t squeeze into it. I put rocks in the lid and the water cannot break the surface for buttons, I’ve had bad luck, if the water breaks the surface, someone inevitably rolls in it and wicks it up and dies. They need to only be able to get the water by putting their little beaks between the rocks. After a couple days I take the lid away and they use the parakeet waterers.

I’ve never used one of those type of brooders.
 
I have ceramic and red light bulbs, and I’ve had a brand new red one die overbite and almost kill the chicks, the ceramic ones seem to last forever.

I have a light stand that I bought at petsmart, it is adjustable height and hangs the light down into the brooder. They only had 1 wattage choice of ceramic, I don’t remember what watt it said. I hang it as low as it goes on the stand and I have the light hanging from a snap hook thing to give a couple extra inches because the buttons get cold (it’s like the rock climbing things). I’ve found that the chicks exhibit more bird like behavior with the ceramic light vs the red one. They seem to be running around test flying at like 1 day old, with the red light they seem to cluster near the light, and don’t run around as much until they’re older.

I use a jar lid for the water, but I put two small parakeet waterers in as well, and I put a small rock in the output channel so they can’t squeeze into it. I put rocks in the lid and the water cannot break the surface for buttons, I’ve had bad luck, if the water breaks the surface, someone inevitably rolls in it and wicks it up and dies. They need to only be able to get the water by putting their little beaks between the rocks. After a couple days I take the lid away and they use the parakeet waterers.

I’ve never used one of those type of brooders.
Im thinking 100 watt should be enough for a small brooder. I have a reptile light fixture holder on hand that i usually use for the reptiles so should be able to adjust it up and down. I also got a thermometer that gives me an alarm when temperature goes too low or high so it should be very useful.
1645069506486.png


And thanks for the info, i was planning on using the parakeet feeder/drinkers but didn't know they could be used from day one. I will also be using paper towel for food and jar lid for water just like you said.
 

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