McChooky
Free Ranging
Short and sweet and to the point !Good instincts.
It can hold one bird, exactly.
It's a cheaply made, undersized and not made by anyone who knows anything about chickens.
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Short and sweet and to the point !Good instincts.
It can hold one bird, exactly.
It's a cheaply made, undersized and not made by anyone who knows anything about chickens.
This is the truth.The best advise I ever received was to build or buy the biggest coop I could afford because the size determines how many chickens I can have, how happy the chickens are, how fast it gets dirty and how often I have to clean it. Having one big enough to hold a brooder and grow out pen for pullets, feeders, waterers, medication and feed is a plus but isn't required. A walk in coop prevents you from being out in bad weather doing chores and makes raising chickens more fun
Personally, I'm so happy that you asked experienced people about the coop and asked for recommendations. Thank you. With the price of eggs, I'm seeing a lot of misinformation and encouragement for irresponsible chicken keeping, sadly putting lots of Chics at risk. Best wishes for your new adventure . . . they're darling, fun, and like potato chips - they're addicting as well.Thank you all so much!! This was very helpful! I will probably get the refund and plan better for a different set up. I appreciate it!
I agree totally. Adapt and adjust I say. I've found the dog run works absolutely perfectly. I would use tarps for around the coop and a good chicken wire to cover the dog run. It may be work but it will save the chickens from getting out and critters from getting in. Good luck. They are fun to raise.You can modify it so the entire unit becomes a larger coop but you will need to add a much bigger run regardless. The simplest idea would be to modify this and then place the entire thing in a 10x10 dog kennel.
CONVERTING COOP
To turn it from 2 small "boxes" (tiny coop above tiny run) into 1 bigger "box" you'll want to remove as much of the inside coop wall as possible, plus the floor. Take out the old roosts too.
Nests might be able to stay as is, or may need to be relocated elsewhere or replaced - depends on the structure of the coop and how things inside stack up once done.
Run a new roost(s) lengthwise or widthwise across the newly open space, depending on how much roost is needed. Ideally you’d like 12” per bird but 10” can suffice in many cases.
Board up some of the external wire walls so that the roost area is protected from winds and rain. Do NOT fully cover up all the wire, you need ventilation and natural light, so at the very least a few inches under the roofline should remain open. If your climate allows for it, you can leave entire walls open with just the mesh, or make it convertible for the season by covering up open walls for winter, and then uncovering for summer.
Example of a modified prefab: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-renovated-prefab-coop.1440258/
i agreeYou could modify it, but I think you'd be better off getting your money back and getting a small used shed. It'll be larger, have easier access for you to clean and will likely have room for you to add more (chicken math is real and you will need to add new birds once your original girls stop laying)
We bought this coop and we’re supposed to pick it up tomorrow. It was advertised to hold 4-5 hens, we planned on having 3-4. The more I look around online, the more I’m thinking this coop is horrible. It’s about 4x4 ft, but that includes the nesting boxes. And the roosts are practically on the floor. So it seems like none of this floor space counts right? Is there I can do to modify this to fit 3 standard sized birds? Or should I just get my money back?
We can’t free range here but we plan to build tunnels and let them out in a tractor run often. But I’m thinking the coop itself might not work either way. Thoughts? I’m spiraling![]()