Options for "Upgrading" a Wafer Thermostat System in an Older Cabinet Incubator?

[RememberTheWay]

So- I'm completely incubator tech illiterate. I am picking up a new old cabinet incubator this week and know that at the very least the two Wafer style Thermostats in it must be replaced.

But when I was researching replacement parts and how to do it, it got me thinking-

"Can I actually"upgrade" the thermostat system altogether instead of just replacing the wafers with new wafers?"

If so, what are my options for Upgrading and can anyone provide links to components or companies they've actually used for doing the same thing in a GQF that they know works and is reliable long term?

Is the Wafer technology better and I should just replace with new wafers? Or will I have a better more reliable machine if I change the thermostat component? Are there things about operating a Wafer thermostat that I need to know if I just replace it?

Lastly- if you've done an upgrade on your own cabinet incubator I would love to hear all about your experience, the product you choose, and what your review is now that you've used it for a bit!

Thanks in advance! All advice and input is much appreciated. Picture just for fun

 

[Debbie292d]

@BantyChooks has made several incubators and I'll bet she may know the best route or who would. Good luck!

 

[BantyChooks]

Thanks for the tag @Debbie292d . I have never upgraded a GQF but I have built a half-dozen incubators running off various mechanical and electrical thermostats, including wafers and digital options. This may not be exactly the input you asked for but I’ll throw my 2c in as someone that has worked with both types.

"Can I actually"upgrade" the thermostat system altogether instead of just replacing the wafers with new wafers?"

I’ve never seen how a GQF is wired but most likely - yes. I buy the GQF replacement wafer assemblies for my incubator builds and they’re electrically simple. Two leads, a temp adjustment screw, that’s really it. Separate the assembly from the rest of the incubator, perhaps following replacement guides, and then re-attach the respective wires to the same two leads on the new thermostat.

If so, what are my options for Upgrading and can anyone provide links to components or companies they've actually used for doing the same thing in a GQF that they know works and is reliable long term?

I used an Inkbird digital thermostat from Amazon. It works well, is reliable, and is adjustable in decent increments. Wiring is relatively simple and requires just a few tools.

Is the Wafer technology better and I should just replace with new wafers? Or will I have a better more reliable machine if I change the thermostat component? Are there things about operating a Wafer thermostat that I need to know if I just replace it?

In all honesty, I’m ambivalent. I used a digital thermostat on my most recent build because I cheat a bit and use it as a thermometer too. (Do not do this - I shouldn’t be either. I have extensively tested my incubator and know how it reacts to different conditions. I also have backup thermometers that both read directly, digitally, and even one that logs with Bluetooth.)

Wafer thermostats have about a 1 degree Fahrenheit range that they’ll keep the internal temperature between. I think this digital one is similar - I have it set to either 1 degree or 0.5 degrees, can’t remember which. It has measurement accuracy of +/- 1*F which is as good as you’ll get without spending absurd amounts of money on ISO certified devices.

The only downside to the wafer thermostats is they don’t have a probe you can move to base readings off a different location. I build incubators so this capability is more important. Since your GQF is designed and tested for the readings to come from the existing location, I would recommend replacing the wafers and leaving it at that. Wafer thermostats have been very reliable for me and I have had many great hatches with no issues. The wafers last for years and are inexpensive. If you just want a fun project, you can go for the replacement anyway, but it is unlikely to help with reliability or longevity. Congrats on the new incubator and good luck!

 

[mcdze]

pretty sure most thermostats are a simple variable resistor more or less .. but youd need one thats going to be in a range your controller board can calibrate, i doubt they all have the same resistance specs ..sooo ..better off just getting an entire unit unless you know the specs .. heard good things about inkbird

 

[Debbie292d]

.. heard good things about inkbird

I agree! We use a different version of an Inkbird thermostat in one of the brooders to regulate a ceramic bulb. Hubby, an electrician, wired a dimmer switch to it first, and I complained it was varying temperatures by 5-10 degrees either way and that was too much. The lamp is on a chain, so yes, I could just put another link onto the hook, but I thought in this day and age, this could be done better, and it would save energy if the bulb wasn't on the entire time. This keeps it within 2 degrees mostly, sometimes 3-5, but fast recovery. I'm going to get another one for the other brooder that's identical to this one, except he hasn't wired it yet. It's the most stable of any heating system for a brooder I've ever used, and there have been several!

 

[RememberTheWay]

I’ve never seen how a GQF is wired but most likely - yes. I buy the GQF replacement wafer assemblies for my incubator builds and they’re electrically simple.

This is the inside portion of it

 

[RememberTheWay]

I used an Inkbird digital thermostat from Amazon. It works well, is reliable, and is adjustable in decent increments. Wiring is relatively simple and requires just a few tools.

And this will completely replace the wafer system and thermometer? What about the hygrometer?

From what I understand the wafers activate and turn off the heating element. With the wafers I still have to have an additional thermometer and hygrometer. And to adjust the temperature I must tighten/loosen a wing nut and then come back later to see if it's adjusted the temperature to what it needs to be. Correct? I also understand that wafers aren't really a set and forget type of technology. It is susceptible to temp fluctuations from room temps? And much more complicated to get the temp right.

With what you suggested is that a set it type of tech? Where I can manually set the temp like on my styrofoam incubator and then the heating element turns on and off according to the temperature fluctuations in relation to what I set the temp to?

 

[RememberTheWay]

I will probably end up just replacing the wafers then. Can you recommend a thermometer and hygrometer to use?

Next question. This particular model of GQF because it is old is literally a plywood box. Unpainted. I plan to put in on my finished carport that might not be air-conditioned or heated very well as a hatchery room. Should I insulate the box with foam insulation board and finish it or something to help keep the internal temps more even in regards to the room temps? Or would this hurt the incubator? I'm considering insulting the room I build in the carport specifically for the incubators as well but haven't decided. If I do insulate I will at the very least use a swamp cooler in their for climate control and maybe a portable air conditioner? Might heat the surrounding carport with a rocket mass heater in the winter for by brooding/grow out winter area. Haven't decided yet. That heater would be fueled by wood and have a stone mass to retain and put out ambient heat longer then a traditional wood stove.

 

[RememberTheWay]

Didn't even think about using a dimmer and thermostat for my heat lamps. I will have to consider this, especially when I get everything moved into the carport brooding and hatching room here in about a month!

I agree! We use a different version of an Inkbird thermostat in one of the brooders to regulate a ceramic bulb. Hubby, an electrician, wired a dimmer switch to it first, and I complained it was varying temperatures by 5-10 degrees either way and that was too much. The lamp is on a chain, so yes, I could just put another link onto the hook, but I thought in this day and age, this could be done better, and it would save energy if the bulb wasn't on the entire time. This keeps it within 2 degrees mostly, sometimes 3-5, but fast recovery. I'm going to get another one for the other brooder that's identical to this one, except he hasn't wired it yet. It's the most stable of any heating system for a brooder I've ever used, and there have been several!

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