Glad I checked in today.
It sounds like a really good move and it will be easier to find info with a shorter thread.
Thanks to everyone that have watched over this thread, it's a lot of hard work.
Maybe post a re-direct as the last post?
Oh and I forgot to add. If you want a Komondor it is best to get a pup. They do not switch loyalty easily after they are bonded. That is one reason it is very important to socialize them when young.
And this time I am really getting off of here. Listening to the Pug snore is making me tired...
I have heard that over and over about the GPs and if you will look at the bulliten boards at the stores there are always ads for missing GPs. That is why many are going to the guard Donkeys. I wonder if their popularity has lead to poor breeding because I know that they are used in other...
They are not considered to be adults until their third year. As far as their guarding ability it is deeply rooted in their breeding, it's their social skills and obediance that have to be devoloped. And they are hard-headed too. I'm used to training Dobermans and they catch on fast with little...
I always liked putting a blue rooster over black hens. Many of the blues hatched out of that combination will have black lacing on the blue feathers and the blue will look more fluid, not like it is sprinkled on.
Roam? Ours will not get within 4 feet of the fence unless told to do so and that is with no training. And they don't jump up on us either, it's hard to believe that they are still puppies.
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I am having back issues, too many miles on hardtails I guess. I got to see my CT scans and I have picked up better looking vertebre that had been laying out in a pasture for many years.
And I am very pleased with "the boys" the Komondors are the only breed that I have ever owned that act exactly like everything that I have read about them.
The closer a threat gets the quieter they become, walking almost cat-like to meet the threat be it man or beast. Even though they are tall...
Before we could get the game bird starter we found that raising Poults was possible by feeding the boiled egg and regular chick starter. We learned about doing this at a swap meet in Ks. from a guy that raised the Broad-Breasted Whites. His birds averaged 50 pounds at slaughter.
It seems funny to me that with most studies on either broilers or layers they will use NNs as the control group that they measure the other breeds by. This tells me that the breed is very predictable and rock solid as to type.
There is a program in South America where they are having villages...
We have never had problems raising them. We start them off on game bird starter mixed 50/50 with boiled egg less the shell. That is how we start all of our birds and they do a lot better that way.
For the NNs we don't use medicated feed either, they don't need it.
Ya'll crack me up. I have been known to look for a bird that is just right for years to add to our breeding program. Last time I did that it took four years to find him but Teva got him for fifty cents up at the Perkins sale.
Monty if you are breeding for show get the body type right first and then breed for color. Cull for DQs first and cull hard and pretty soon your flock will come around and look like you want them to.
You see type counts for more points then color does and a bird with fair color but good type...
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You do know for that to work you have to know a bird's parentage going way back, right?
If you use birds of unknown history your percentage of "sports" will be way high.
But most breeders don't talk about that, shhhhh!